New wiki article on adding sockets

As always, for comment, enhancement, or derision as you see fit:

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Reply to
John Rumm
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one suggestion for clarity:

the classical solution would be to graft the new sockets between a pair of existing sockets, running new cables to both and disconnecting (or reusing) the existing link cable.

could become

the classical solution would be to extend the ring by grafting the new sockets between a pair of existing sockets, running new cables to both and disconnecting (or reusing) the existing link cable.

If I were writing it I'd add the other methods too, such as

- spur

- socket on other side of wall to an existing one and maybe comment briefly on the old spur off a spur

and maybe a bit on how to decide whether a spur is enough, or you need to extend the ring. Ie a current rating and a brief newb's guide to what this means in terms of appliances that will be used.

NT

Reply to
NT

Yes- I'd hoped that this Wiki entry would confirm - or guide me to confirmation - on something I advised a friend on recently with respect to spurs.

He's putting up a small conservatory. I suggested that rather than extend the ring which wasn't going to be too easy, he should put an FCU off the ring and he could then put the 2 or 3 sockets in the conservatory on that; if my memory is correct that is allowed as the cable is protected by the 13A fuse in the FCU.

The works not been done yet so I do have time to back-track if needs be !!

Rob

Reply to
Rob G

That's fine - but if it's easy to run a spur, why is it difficult to run a ring?

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

I think you should add a note about the size of cable to use. It's covered elsewhere but a note here giving the "normal" size, with a link to the full FAQ would improve things, making the article stand-alone.

Also add a paragraph about the permitted cable routing zones. We don't want another MP's daughter drilling through a diagonally routed cable using the excuse that the DIYFAQ didn't warn me :-)

Reply to
John Weston

*Adding* sockets is probably illegal now if DIYed. So instead you use lots of extensions and adaptors. Very safe, that one.
Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

And the 17Th Edition requirements for RCD protection to all cables except in a very limited number of circumstances.

If the existing circuit isn't RCD protected then a fused spur using an RCD FCU is the easiest compliant way, although rather limiting.

If daisy chaining into a flush single socket then changing it to a surface double can privide useful wiggle room for cables inside, especially if not using crimps.

Owain

Reply to
Owain

Which was the point of the article really - if you can run a spur, it usually not much harder to get a second cable back to the same point by the same route, and use the procedure described.

Reply to
John Rumm

Na, if you have an overloaded circuit then it only legal to add more to it rather than create a new circuit. ;-)

Reply to
John Rumm

Probably even more so in a conservatory where you'll likely surface mount and use conduit. Or, like me, Pyro. ;-)

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Dave Plowman (News) coughed up some electrons that declared:

D-Line trunking, whilst not cheap, is fairly easy on the eye if you can't avoid surface runs.

Good man!

Reply to
Tim S

This often solves the single double socket restriction by rejoining the ring further down where enlarging the ring is difficult.

Reply to
ericp

It also creates a non standard circuit that is then harder to test and trace later.

Reply to
John Rumm

It's a bit like plumbing in copper with soldered joints rather than using push fit plastic - gives pleasure in the actual doing, rather than just getting the job done.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

ok, included.

Perhaps I should have highlighted at the start, that this article was not supposed to be a general treaties on extending circuits in general - only a quick note on solving one specific problem. I anticipate that it will be linked to from a more general article that explains a fuller picture of the options available.

Reply to
John Rumm

Fancy knocking up some words on pyro potting / terminations etc for the wiki?

Reply to
John Rumm

I was simply suggesting that expanding its scope would make it more useful. If you write what you want, maybe later someone can come along and add the other options.

If there qwere a separate article for the options, yours would effectively end up copied whole and inserted into it, so unless I'm missing something the new one would seem the right place to put it all. Though of course anything can be created on a wiki.

NT

Reply to
NT

Will do. Can I send it to you for checking and including? I think probably one not using any special tools would be best as I'm not sure what's available these days, and it can be done with care. Promise not to include a hacksaw...;-)

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

I got to a very strange video when i googled 'pyro pot' so i'd best wait to find out what it is...

i do like the colours in the diagram, green, blue and red, it makes sense but how to explain it in words?

[g]
Reply to
george (dicegeorge)

Pyro (shortened form of the makers name "Pyrotenex" or something like that). Basically MICC cable:

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bare wires in a powder insulation means it needs special termination to keep the wires from touching, insulate them, and to "pot" or seal the end of the cable so that water can not get into the (hygroscopic) mineral insulation.

Huh? You mean this one:

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would be brown, blue, and Green / yellow stripe ;-)

Reply to
John Rumm

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