New boiler in kitchen wall cupboards

[ian_news66]

Our boiler is getting on a bit and I'm considering having it replaced. We don't have many options for locating it - basically it will have to remain in the same position, which is wall-mounted in the kitchen. The current boiler is between two wall-mounted cupboards (the type that are taller than usual), and is itself behind a door that matches the cupboards to either side. In other words, the boiler is hidden and the effect is a line of three cupboards.

Now as I understand it there are a couple of problems with this. First: strictly speaking there is currently insufficient clearance between the front of the boiler and the door. Second: I believe it used to be possible to buy shallower boilers that would solve the clearance problem, but now new boiler installations have to be condensing types (is this correct?) and these tend to be deeper.

I can think of a few options:

- don't try to hide the boiler. This will look a bit naff as there is coving along the top and bottom of the cupboards, the bottom one hiding a fluorescent light fitting that goes the full length.

- remount the cupboards so that they are not directly against the back wall and are brought forward a few cm as needed. The run of cupboards does not go along the whole length of wall so this will require some kind of side panel to hide the gap at the visible side. Similarly the coving is mitred to turn round this corner, into the wall, so I'll probably have to replace the whole lot.

- get some deeper wall cupboards and replace the current cupboards, but keeping the doors. This sounds like the best option: if I am going to have to faff around anyway, we might as well get a bit of useful extra storage out of it. I'll still have to do the coving as in the last option. The main problem I see here is that I'm not sure it is even possible to get deeper wall cupboards. All I have seen are in standard

300mm depth. I would also need the taller type that we have now.

Any thoughts on this? Other ideas, or a source for the deeper cupboards? Or maybe it is possible to get a shallower boiler after all?

Thanks in advance,

-- Ian

[The3rd Earl Of Derby]

Any preference why it has to remain in the kitchen?

No place upstairs it can be sited i.e bathroom,landing bearing in mind a cabinet can hide it.

-- Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

[Ed Sirett]

Choose a boiler that fits the cupboards and allows the required clearances which may be as little as 5mm.

Start with something like discountheating.co.uk (?) and follow the links to the manufacturers who will give the specifications.

[Lobster]

Depends on the boiler specifications, but the gap can often be surprisingly small with modern boilers.

Yes condensing boilers are now required except in exceptional circumstances (basically only when they are impossible to install for some reason). They are usually (always?) deeper than the comparable non-condensing model; there may be some around which fit behind standard cupboard doors?

You could always go for a tower/larder unit - they are typically 600mm deep, ie full worktop width. Don't know if that would work with your kitchen though.

David

[John Rumm]

If it is any help, my condensing boiler (Ideal Isar) is shallower than a standard wall unit and only requires clearance of 5mm to each side. I am sure there are others that should fit as well.

[Tim Morley]

I have an Ideal Isar condensing combi which can be cupboard mounted

[Christian McArdle]

Usually with modern condensing boilers, the required front clearance is for maintenance access and can be zero when it is a door. Check the installation instructions.

How deep are the cupboards?

Christian.

[Christian McArdle]

Yes, they are 278mm deep. The non-combi model is called the Icos if a system/heating boiler is required.

Christian.

[ian_news66]

Thanks for the suggestion but the boiler is in the middle of the wall, so there is a cupboard either side and worktop below.

Ian

[ian_news66]

I had been led to believe that condensing boilers that shallow don't exist by the chap who last serviced the current boiler, hence my questions. However, it seems from some other replies in this thread that suitable models might exist.

Thanks,

Ian

[ian_news66]

I was going to say that I wasn't sure a combi would be suitable but you've addressed that one, thanks!

The reason I would hesitate about a combi that it needs to supply heating/water for a moderately sized 3 bed semi and I'm not sure a combi would be up to that. Or would it? I'd be happy to be corrected - I used to own a flat with a Vaillant combi and it was great not having to worry about whether there was enough hot water in the tank. The only downside was the flow rate for filling a bath etc, but I got used to it. The other reason I don't know whether a combi would be suitable is that the current system is a vented one; I worry that turning it into a pressurised system might cause leaks to spring all over the place! Also I remeber reading that it's not possible to put inhibitor in a pressurised system. We are in a hard water area so that would be a concern.

-- Ian

[ian_news66]

They are standard 300mm depth.

[ian_news66]

There is nowhere suitable on the landing and the bathroom is quite small. There is an airing cupboard in the bathroom so I suppose one option would be to install a combi there and get rid of the tank. I'm not sure about the suitability of a combi though, as I've mentioned in another reply. Also my hope is that it will be possible to get away with not too much disruption to existing pipework etc if the boiler is installed in a similar position to the current one.

-- Ian

[Ed Sirett]

Read the SealedCH faq.

[John Rumm]

A small system boiler like the Icos should fit nicely then. Some change to the pipework except for converting to a sealed system (see Ed's FAQ for details on that).

You could take the opportunity to upgrade the cylinder to a fast recovery one. That should eliminate any worries about lack of hot water since the boiler should be able to reheat it in less time than it takes to have a shower or bath.

[Christian McArdle]

Quite frankly, if it does spring leaks when it goes pressurised, then the system is about to leak anyway. Indeed, the fact that (a) a plumber is already on site when it does so and (b) is specifically testing for leaks (even hidden ones), means that the damage is likely to be less than if you leave it vented.

So even if you go non-combi, I would strongly recommend going pressurised anyway. There are loads of other advantages, too.

Christian.