I know - see the smilie? I just meant that because I wanted to separate the earths, I ignored the numbering on the earth bar. I matched the numbers on the neutrals with the MCB positions. That'll confuse the next guy!
I know - see the smilie? I just meant that because I wanted to separate the earths, I ignored the numbering on the earth bar. I matched the numbers on the neutrals with the MCB positions. That'll confuse the next guy!
Yep - only I didn't notice it was back to front form the line and neutral until I had finished :-)
My own problem with the Screwfix and B&Q ones isn't usually space (though I do tend to use 20A 4-terminal boxes on lighting circuits rather than the 5A variety), it's the design of the terminal itself. Particularly on the 30A 3-t jobbies the U-shaped brass insert into a plastic moulding looks good, but if you get a wire in slightly skewiff or apply slightly too much pressure on the grub screw it is very easy to crack the plastic leading to a loose connection and hence a scrap JB.
I'd appreciate any ideas too, though of course the Screwfix boxes are so cheap it hardly matters if you lose one or two every now and again.
Hwyl!
M.
Yup, had that many times.
But what would worry me is using a junction that's this marginal in a concealed location.
I have to say, I still really like terminal blocks (chock blocks). For this type of application, the 30A ceramic ones from SF are great. They have the added advantage of having two screws per connection, so if you overlap the cables, there's very little chance of failure. You just have to come up with a good enclosure.
In message , Christian McArdle writes
And if you did want to enclose them, plenty of adaptable boxes a round.
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