I'm a novice so please don't shoot me down!!!
I'm doing a bathroom remodel and I want to add a few valves (Including replacement of two valves in loft) My problem is that I'm nervous of using compression fittings. As I can solder, is it possible to mix the fittings, for example could I use an end feed tap connector on the compression ball valve? The threads look the same...
Or is there a better method?
I only ask because I have a case full of comp. fittings from a friend. cheers
use the compression joints as they are supposed to be used and you shoulnt have much problems, do not over tighten the compression fitting and make sure you check all joints after refilling with water. if still in doubt get plenty of buckets!
Is it as they say, tighten by hand as much as poss, and then one full turn?
I always tighten until they creak or judder a little bit. Then put on water. Any drips, tighten slightly. Note that brass olives need more force than the copper ones. Also note, if the pipe itself is not constrained in some way, often it will turn a bit as you tighen the fitting, which can be a problem if orientation matters. I have never had to use jointing paste, PTFE etc.
One thing that I always wonder about. Most of the fittings that come with olives (service valves etc) seem to have copper olives, but brass ones are more commonly available in packets. Explanation anyone ?
Good luck, Simon.
An unusual problem in that most novices start with compression fittings but are scared of soldered ones! :-)
It's a bit of an odd solution; yes, the threads are the same and it should probably work OK. However, for a start, notice that the end of the ball valve fitting has a conical profile, designed to mate up with an olive in a compression fitting; whereas the comparable end of a tap is flat in profile, intended to but against the fibre washer which you'll see inside your tap connector - ie, the seals are different. That said, it should still seal OK, but IMHO it would be an unnecessary bodge and also look ugly; furthermore you are introducing two extra joints at every ball valve for no good reason.
Don't be scared of compression fittings; they are far easier than soldering. Also easier to dismantle and try again in the unlikely event of a leak (which anyway would only be likely to be a drip, rather than a torrent!) Try googling this newsgroup for lots of tips.
David
Do not do that. The thread for a compression nut on a fitting is not BSP. If it is it more lock than anything. Best buy a compression flexible tap connector with an integral isolation valve.
I think I'll have a go at the compression fittings then, I was put off mainly by googling to be honest! Should also confront ones fears!
Many thanks.
"Olly D" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@s13g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:
I grease the threads lightly so I can feel resistance properly, tighten up till the pipe is gripped firmly, maybe a bit more - you don't want it popping out when you turn the water on! - and then pull them up a bit more if they're weeping.
I'm mortally afraid of overtightening, necking the pipe, specially if there's only a short bit, because my hovel was previously owned by a gorilla.
And never ever put a compression fitting in a spot that will be bricked or tiled over like the ******* professionals who knocked out a wall in my bog/bathroom did! They may start to weep if disturbed by someone changing a cistern ball valve.
DAMHIK Grrrr
mike
Then just get on & use some. Such diffidence will be replaced by confidence.
If you can solder, you can use two spanners. Look up the manufacturers' website if you need instructions on how to make a compresssion joint.
Mixing compression and tap connectors would be a bodge; use compression olives on compression fittings.
The tap connector is a parallel BSP thread and the sealing is by a compressing the fibre washer between two flat faces. The compression fitting won't have a suitable flat face.
Different manufacturers of compression fittings use different threads. Some use BSP threads, others use a finer metric thread.
Copper olives are for instances where disconnection is required. They are easier to get off. You are "supposed" to replace olives when disconnecting and reconnecting.
However, in my (somewhat limited) experience fine threads are only ever found on zone valves for some reason.
Christian.
In article , Olly D writes
That said, my mate had a go and made a complete arse of it, weeping (both from pipes & eyes) that wouldn't go away. He was working with the existing pipes which although the right metric size were dinged, scratched & covered in remains of paint. I'd say, just make sure the pipe is round, clean & gently polished with a bit of wire wool before you start to assemble & things shouldn't go far wrong. Good luck.
And use good quality fittings such as Conex. Wickes sell Conex. Put a smear of jointing paste on the olive.
Purely a matter of what the chinese supplier sends to the packer or merchant.
If the order to the Chinese says 'Copper Olives' thats what they will supply.
Sorry to disagree but most 15mm compression fittings now have a 1/2" BSP thread. Some dont but most do.
Simon, you're losing the plot! see
;-)
David
The tread is not meant to attach a pipe to, even though they may have used a BSP thread. The original compression nut threads were deliberately not BSP to avoid this situation. Pipe threads are longer, that the compression nut threads on the fittings. DO NOT screw a pipe to the compression fitting. If the fitting is mean to have copper pipe at each end then do not attach anything except copper pipe.
Not necessarily. A random handful of 15mm compression nuts have names & threads thus;
1/2" BSP Conex Sanbra, CZ, Opella, Kuterlite**Fine Thread(s)* Prestex, Instantor, Kuterlite**
*The "fine thread" actually includes two different threads with the same pitch but different ODs. I don't know the name of the thread, I'm sure someone will know. **Kuterlite fittings are listed in both categories; this isn't a mistake.All the nuts are marked 864-2 (BS 864 Pt.2 ).
I've no idea how long these fittings have been in my garage. I'd never heard of some of the makers, some may not still be in business.
A tap connector usually has a square end, while a compression fitting a taper for the olive. Close examination should show this. In neither case does the thread do the sealing. It just compresses the seal - either washer or olive.
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