Masonary Paint Removal

yes.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher
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Least of your problems. These things use shit loads of sand but only have a cleaning area of about 10mm wide. And the carbide nozzles wear at a phenominal rate.

As a guestimate, doing the front of an average house would take 2-3 tonnes of sand (which you then have to get rid of) and take weeks. Carbide nozzle will last around 3 hours @ £15 a pop.

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

The link posted was to a wet blaster not dry. I can see that a dry blaster would use a lot of sand and needs BOFO compressor (trawling about the web yesterday I found a dry blaster, 72CFM @ 100psi...).

As I see it a wet blaster is just a pressure washer with some abrasive in the water flow. The picture in the link shows a normal PW lance with the grit attachment on the front. Nozzle wear could still be a problem though. I shall have to ask some questions before going that way. We have plenty of space to lose a tonne or two of grit though, just have to shift it.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

That thought had already occured to me, which was on of the plus points for the needle gun. Going to get scaffolding for access so a tarp can be put on the outside/around the work area to contain the worst of a PW kick back, well in theory.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

Ah the voice of experience. B-) A PW jet doesn't do a very big area either.

That would be my sort of thinking as well. The mechanical whacking acation aspect being one up on the PW. How long did it take to clean down say 1 sq m of fairly loose paint?

I know one ought to use lime mortar/lime wash on a random stone but we are *very* exposed and the existing pointing is cement based. In the interests of not having to paint/patch repoint every few years I don't think lime mortar and lime wash are up to it over cement mortar and a modern breathable paint.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

Serious stuff! I'd at least do a small trial with paint stripper before embarking on something that drastic. In my case it lifted the paint layers from the masonry quite neatly. Even on an irregular surface, and left to dry, it may well flake sufficiently to make it easier to remove.

Reply to
stuart noble

If you're using portland cement and stone then its non porous so why have a breathable paint?

One reason for lime mortar is that it's softer than stone, so if the building settles then the pointing gives way, rather than the stone cracking.

It may be a good idea to use a softer sand with portland cement. so that it will give rather than the stone crack.

perhaps

[g]
Reply to
george [dicegeorge]

The stone is sandstone not granite, so is a little porous. Over time water will get bhind the paint layer I'd rather it had some chance of getting out rather than sitting there and either making it's way inside or freezing damaging the stone or paint layer. We had some quite long periods (weeks) of consecuative "ice days" last winter. Days when the air temp didn't get above freezing and overnight mins of -10C.

This building has probably first built about 300 years ago, don't know if it has been rebuilt since. Apparently it was a delerict shell

30 or 40 years ago. It's not likely to be still settling, it's almost certainly built directly onto the bedrock as well.
Reply to
Dave Liquorice

Hi Dave, Don't know if you'll pick this up. This is spooky. With a name like that you could be same Dave Liquorice who came to fix my organ in Devon in 2014? If you are, Hi. Anyway, I hope you succeeded with your masonry paint! Just for the record, I had a similar problem and used an electric needle gun I hired from Speedy tool hire. It worked well, but was slow and hard work.

Cheers John

Reply to
john.shepherd12345

Don't worry, after almost 9 years I'm sure the original paint would have flaked off by now, and even its replacement will probably be up for renewal too.

Where are you getting this ancient post from ?.

Reply to
Andrew

Pressure wash to get rid of the loose stuff. Paint over the rest of it.

Reply to
harry

I had the same daunting task last year. Ended up buying a Karcher K4 Pressure washer which proved to be the perfect tool for the job.

Reply to
www.GymRatZ.co.uk

So now we all wonder what was wrong with his 'organ'

Brian

Reply to
Brian Gaff

He does acknowledge its ancient, but it must be a hell of a server if it goes all that way back. Brian

Reply to
Brian Gaff

Nope.

work.

Used a pressure washer.

The replacement is still good, though not pristine due to lichen and algae growth. The gable end that was previously rendered is a bit iffy in places, I don't think I pressure washed that after removing the render (which was almost totatly blown), that may have something to do with it.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

Maybe 9 years for op but I have a similar problem that I need to sort when the weather gets a bit warmer. My property has probably 5+ layers of masonry paint. 80% appears sound but with the other 20% some of the top layers are flaking off leaving sound layers beneath and in some areas the paint is no longer sticking to the bricks. The latter I think is mainly where the brick surface was spalling prior to being painted and are the odd bricks randomly scattered around the wall.

A question to those who have used a pressure washer: Was it used to get all the paint off or just the loose paint?

My intention is to repaint with the same colour (white) after making good any dodgy areas.

Reply to
alan_m

I'm very interested in the answer to this too. My house is roughcast rendered with nearly 80 years-worth of paint on it and in need of a re-paint. Some of the paint is still well attached, but some isn't.

Reply to
nothanks

Anything that that doesn't come off with the impact from a rotating pencil jet of a pressure washer at 2" or less isn't going to come off anytime soon. Beware that if the mortar is a bit iffy the pressure washer will have that out as well...

It's very messy job, you'll get soaked and filthy from paint flakes and anything else that detaches from the wall. Paint flakes will travel considerable distance given a chance. I had proper scafolding put up(*) which made access very easy and gave something to attach tarpulins to behind the work area to contain the flying paint and water. Also cover all the ground under the work area and at least a couple of yards either side.

(*) Well worth the £2,000 or so it cost for 6+ weeks. That was for full access to three two storey gable ends (3 levels) and 10 m of two storey wall (2 levels).

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

In my case, just the loose stuff. Walls still looking good 15 years later.

Tim

Reply to
Tim+

Mine was to get rid of flakes after wasting a few weekends with a wire brush and getting nowhere although there were areas where the original sub-layer of paint also came away from the rough render.

It didn't get rid of the fine hairs left by the annoying ivy that was removed so they just got painted over.

It is indeed a wet and messy job and the flakes go everywhere but I found a garden leaf-blower perfect for cleaning up the debris from the OCD Neighbours drive, flower pots etc.

Best nozzle on pressure washer was the "hard surface" one that seems to rotate the water hitting the wall from all angles.

:)

Reply to
www.GymRatZ.co.uk

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