Is this any good: Werner Timber Complete Loft Ladder 3 Section
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Seems like it might be the answer for us after insulating the loft. Insulated trap door (OK not much really, but better than nothing), and ladder fits on top of trap door, so fine with some celotex over the loft boards around the hatch.
Or any better one for similar price that can be recommended ?
It looks very similar, if not identical, to one I bought and fitted 2 years ago. It is superb and my only regret is that I didn't buy one earlier.
I fitted it in a new location and then closed up and plasterboarded over the old access. This had 2 advantages, firstly the aperture was just where I wanted it to fit in with where it came into the room and secondly it gave me access to the loft while I was fitting it.
I needed to cut one joist out and fit a couple of noggins in, but all quite easy. I had the advantage that I borrowed a Paslode nail gun from a neighbour, I used more nails than if I had been using a hammer , ( I WANT ONE!!!, Santa please take note). I removed the ladder section before fitting the frame and then re-fitted it later. Overall it was easy enough to fit, preparation was the key and a second person essential.
Looks virtually identical to the Wickes one I fitted a while ago, except Wi ckes has a handrail and is currently £127. Wickes frequently have offers on loft ladders, and discount vouchers when the new catalogue comes out.
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And Selco have another virtually identical one at £108:
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The only problem I had (and other people in the Wickes reviews were moaning about it too) was that the instructions don't specify how far the ladder s wings out - which can be a problem if you're fitting it on a short landing or some other situation where it might be fouled by walls/doors.
Wickes has a handrail and is currently £127. Wickes frequently have offe rs on loft ladders, and discount vouchers when the new catalogue comes out.
How far does it swing out ? Mind you ours will be in line with the landing so should be OK. Also, how do the sections extend ? It looks to me like the bottom of the le gs are manually pulled down or pushed back up. Do they clip into place when pushed back up before you shut the hatch ? Simon.
From memory, about 18 inches beyond the front edge of the hatch. I can check exactly if it's likely to be a problem for you.
You fold them up/down manually, concertina style. There's a spring clip that engages between the upper two sections when extended. Flick it off to fold them up again.
Shouldn't be a problem with the swing. Something to do in the new year. I also wonder about a mechanism to pull some additional insulation over the ladder in the loft when the hatch is shut. Might be tricky though. Simon.
ulated trap door (OK not much really, but better than nothing), and ladder fits on top of trap door, so fine with some celotex over the loft boards ar ound the hatch.
Yes I'll have to enlarge my aperture ... ouch ! We had the loft insulated and now of course we want to store more stuff in there. I already put some big shelves up on one wall. I suspect some others on the gable wall (9", shouldn't collapse !) and some shelves over the spine wall . Then some celotex "paths" through the mineral wool to get to them. Luckil y I had boarded the loft main section before the insulation ... Simon.
So what stops the ladder "falling down" from its concertina configuration when you open or close the hatch whilst it is in its vertical position ? Some sort of catch or springs ? Simon.
On the one we have the ladder itself has the top section fixed to the hatch, the middle folds onto that and the bottom on top. The whole lot, ladder and hatch has a couple of heftly sprung stays to counter balance the weight. The hatch never gets past the angle of the ladder.
I tested mine - carefully! Stood to the rear of it and released the catch, let it go from fully up and it swung down not very fast and stopped before it got to me. If it does drop when I'm under it, it has only 14" to fall before it hits my head - the shock of it, if unseen, could be the worst bit.
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