Linseed oil and Turps OR Danish Oil?

I recall someone mentioned a specialist woodworking newsgroup some time ago. If you could remind me I'd be grateful.

Anyway, I want to apply a finish to some furniture that we've stripped. Mainly, it seems to be oak although I think some beech too.

Some was painted but mostly we have removed that shiny shellac type finish to reveal some lovely light brown/greyish wood.

My first thought was to apply Danish oil as a finish since I have had good success with it on pine. Does anyone have any suggestions for an alternative?

I would not like to darken it much although making a little browner rather than grey would be acceptable. I also want to try to avoid a shiny finish if possible.

My friend helping suggested using a 50/50 mix of boiled linseed oil and turpentine substitute but as I have no experience with that I thought I would check with this group before proceeding.

Any and all suggestions are welcome.

Thanks as always. Rob

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Reply to
Kalico
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The linseed oil and turps substitute mix would work well.

Even better if you use real turpentine and/or you add some beeswax to it.

You won't get a shiny finish with it .

Obviously try a little on a place where it doesn't show before committing.

Danish oil gives a slightly higher sheen but is not really shiny either.

.andy

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Reply to
Andy Hall

Briwax P7 from JWBollom is good for stripped stuff. A pale, cold brown.

Reply to
stuart noble

Google?

Most of these proprietary oils are tunge oil/varnishes/ cut with turps. (You could use alcohol as a thinner.)

Paint it on, buff it off.

Can you still get tins of furniture wax polish? The silicon spray polish works just as good. More buffing with either a day or so after and so on to time indefinite.

Reply to
Michael Mcneil

Hi,

I've heard linseed oil can blacken in some circumstances, tung oil might be a better bet.

Try rec.woodworking too

cheers, Pete.

Reply to
Pete C

Just to hijack this thread slightly, we're having a new European oak staircase fitted at the moment and it is being left 'in the white' so I should think I'll be applying a finish to it at the weekend. I originally thought of Danish oil or Sabrina's 'Oak Oil' but will this provide a suitable finish for the handrail or would I need something a bit more durable/dirt-repellent?

Thanks

Neil

Reply to
Neil Jones

Use the offcuts (not the staircase) to experiment :-) and view the samples in artificial light as well as daylight. Boy, have I seen some ballsups in this area. One I would try would be a genuinely clear seal (Rustins 2 pack or similar) followed by a tinted varnish. Be careful with anything coloured as the first coat

Reply to
stuart noble

"stuart noble" >staircase fitted at the moment and it is being left 'in the white' so I

ballsups in

Any particular pratfalls I should be looking out for?

Thanks - I will try a few options first before diving in...

Reply to
Neil Jones

Thanks to everyone for the advice.

Rob

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Reply to
Kalico

Why not try OsColor oil?

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Reply to
Kalico

Yes it will. I've used Sabrina's oil for the treads and for the handrails and spindles.

It hasn't attracted dirt in either case.

Maintenance has been a recoating about once a year.

We don't wear outdoor shoes on the stairs - obviously if you tracked mud onto them you would need to clean it off.

All that collects is the inevitable dust, and this is very easily vacuumed away.

.andy

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Reply to
Andy Hall

Concur, I oiled the handrails and spindles of the staircase last year (in time for Christmas) only I used two coats of Danish Oil. Let the first one several days to dry off then a top coat. A slightly damp cloth removes any grubby finger print residue and it only requires light dusting. The finish is slight gloss just off matte.

Reply to
Brian Sharrock

something a

Thanks guys. This was my intended finish but I just had a minor panic that grubby hands (especially from young children etc) were going to affect an oiled finish too much but you have reassured me.

Neil

Reply to
Neil Jones

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