Gave it a bit of a hammering today. Cutting 15mm Contiboard. I'd guess the
very thin blade is easier on the battery. Wonder how well it will last.
But a very useful tool for when cordless is handy - like putting up
shelves in a lockup garage with no power. Was quite surprised how long the
*A nest isn't empty until all their stuff is out of the attic
Dave Plowman email@example.com London SW
On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 00:48:44 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
Did you find it 'strange' how quickly (if not surprising) it went from
'running perfectly' to 'dead' (assuming it happened like that with
you), or are you just more familiar with Li-ion powered tools than me?
I was working in Mums garden with the circular saw, jigsaw and drill
(Lidl) and whilst I had power out there (I needed it for the belt
sander) it was nice to be free of power cords (as I was reminded
several times whilst using the belt sander) and none of the tools
seemed to struggle.
I think I might look for a finer blade for the circular saw as
daughter and I used it on some (old) polycarbonate sheet and it was
cracking and splintering quite a bit.
Cheers, T i m
Li-on batteries must not be over discharged and protection is usually built
in to prevent that. The result is that unlike NiCads which exhibit a taili
ng off of power Li-on devices tend to stop suddenly this is true for my Dew
alt combination drill and a floodlight I have.
On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 12:39:04 -0700 (PDT), Tricky Dicky
Funnily enough, I posted a question about that whole area recently
because of a Li-Ion battery pack I was trying to fix for a friends
Yes, that is what I was experiencing (and haven't done so in such a
marked way before. Even my Stanley FatMax Li-Ion drill tails off
Also creating less sawdust. For portable saws the problem would
probably be the possibility of binding although with anti kickback
and safety clutches in more expensive saws that may be less of a
My AEG mains circular saw doesn't have a riving knife, but that never
seems to cause a problem. Perhaps modern TCT saw blades are less subject
It doesn't have a safety switch either, where you press a button before
you can pull the trigger. You just pull the trigger, which is in a
separate part of the handle.
They're likely to be, because the teeth are usually a lot
thicker than the body of the blade. Basically they stick
out. Howver I'd imagine theres only so far you can go
with that if you want a thin but rigid blade. Basically
they'll probably stick out a lot less, if at all, with a
really thin blade.
And also kickback won't be a problem providing you keep
the saw straight in the cut rather than twisting it.
Although if you know what you're doing, and know what
forces to expect its possible to cut (fairly wide)
curves in sheets as well. Not that many people would
Best to make sure you keep it straight then.
Rather than slicing your leg off, a wrist injury as it flies
out of your hand, is the more likely outcome. Don't ask
how I know that. And whatever you do, never tie back the
blade guard with a bit of string.
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