Levelling floor tiles

Of all the things I have done on houses, I have never yet laid ceramic / stone / etc floor tiles and I'm steeling myself to do this in our hallway, which is only about 6 sqm (so not too much of a disaster if it's a screw-up!). Anyway, there is always plenty of advice about getting the pattern right and square but I can't find any tips on getting the level right, which seems pretty crucial for a good finish. The floor is concrete, so no problems with flexing etc. Ideally, I'd like to bring the tiles up to the level of the floor they meet (should be enough, but not too much, room for this). I guess the question is whether there is a clever way to set the levels apart from spending a lot of time with spirit levels, which is the only approach that seems practical to me. In the absence of a clever way, I was thinking that I would set something (eg some battens or maybe plastering guides) to mark the level and lay the central block of uncut tiles to this, then let them set and run out from these to do the edges. Does that sound sensible? Any advice would be very welcome.

Reply to
GMM
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I may not be the best person to reply to this, having done it only once, but here goes anyway.

Firstly, I wouldn't start at the centre of a hall and work outwards, because I'd want to avoid standing or kneeling on tiles I had already laid until the adhesive was well hard (so to speak). If you use a suitable notched trowel, designed for this purpose, it will create a level, even bed of adhesive (which you spread for each new area as you go). Then it really is down to a spirit level, or at least a straightedge, to ensure that the tiles don't go up and down.

Assuming you are using cement-based adhesive, err on the side of a stiffer mix.

If you are wanting a really deep bed of adhesive, to raise the level, then this might be less easy to get right first time.

If the floor is bare concrete, seal it with dilute PVA first.

Reply to
geraldthehamster

What you're really after is marrying up the 4 corners of your area and having the tiles between them at the same level, so the chances are none will register 100% level on a spirit level. You just need a couple of lengths of 2" x 1", one cut to size for the length, and one for the width. Use them to level the tiles as you go. On the length you'll be checking that the batten sits on both the far corners and leaves no gap on the tile you're laying. I know you're supposed to start in the middle but, providing you've laid a line out and know where they're going to end up, you can work from whatever edge suits you.

Reply to
Stuart Noble

Levels and strings, thick and variable cement beds and endless patience is the only way sadly.

Use string(and a long level) instead to get the main run, and a small level across them.

Then run strings across to keep the other rows more or less correct.

I found rapid set Ardurit to be ideal. Almost no slump at all in beds up to 1.5" thick in places (crap screed job. Don't ask :-)) Use tail ends of cement buckets to fill major hollows.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Thanks chaps - It looks as though nothing really beat a bit of hard/ careful work does it?

Reply to
GMM

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