Learning to make cupboards properly

I want to attempt build an alcove cupboard and shelves similar to these:

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've done bits similar to this in the past but have just sort of made it up as I went along. Is there a good carpentry book or an online resource that anyone could recommend where I could learn to it properly? I guess I'm interested in how I SHOULD make the frame and what sort of joints I could use, etc

Ideally I don't want to have to buy any expensive equipment unless it would provide a great benefit, partly because I've run out of storage space a home. Also I'd want to be able to finish the project in a reasonable time so would prefer to keep it simple and avoid things like dovetail joints, etc =A0I've done some basic doweling before but again I found this quite time consuming (partly because I had a cheap crappy doweling kit)

At the moment I own a fold up work bench, some saws, clamps, a right- angle thingy, cheap plane (is this something I should upgrade) and a cordless power drill. Is there anything else I should think about investing in that will make a big difference? A biscuit jointer/chop saw?

Any advice greatly received

Charlie=A0

Reply to
Charlie
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Rather than a biscuit jointer, I would go for a router. You can do all sorts of wonderful things with a router: run it along a straight edge to make a trench or straighten up a saw cut; cut mortises; etc. I have a 1/4" Trend T5 (roughly =A3200). Don't be tempted to buy a cheap router - they really aren't worth it.

If you can't afford a router, you might be better off buying a couple of chisels and learning to sharpen them and your plane.

Reply to
Martin Bonner

Put some brackets up.

If you make a cupboard make it a little small and then slide it in. Cover strips can be simple architrave to match the rest of the room.

If you just put boards on the wall with shelf holders, beware sloping walls.

Reply to
Weatherlawyer

There is no single "right" way to do this sort of thing, although there are some ways that are better or quicker than others.

Got to admit I have never been that fond of doweling... has occasional uses (although much depends on what you like building)

If you take this one as an example:

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a very good example of how you can make what were probably quite cheap and basic materials look quite classy. The bulk of the finishing details were done with a router. The face frame has some nice stopped box profiles, and an edge detail routed in. The stopped side chamfer is also repeated on the corners of the cupboard. The sides have holes for the shelf supports, again these can be routed easily with a straight fluted cutter to plunge cut the first hole, and then fixing an offset peg on the router base to engage with that hole, and space out the next etc. (or you could route in a slot and use the nice brass adjustable shelf inserts). The doors look like they were probably made from a slab of MDF, with the edges rounded off with the router, and then some beading mitred and planted on the face to create the raised panel effect. The final finishing touches include the cornice at the top and on the underside of the cupboard top (makes the top look far more substantial and elegant IMHO). All in all a nice job (although I am not as keen on the fireplace arrangement!)

So I agree with the others, a medium sized router is a very sensible must have tool for any kind of furniture building. Buy a decent one to start with (if you get a cheap one, you will soon be getting fed up with its limitations and upgrading it!) Have a look at some of the guidelines here:

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basic biscuit jointer is a quick and easy way of building carcasses quickly. I used one in most projects:

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?title=Desk_bookshelf
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?title=Cabinet_clockDetails on them here:

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chop saw is nice to have, but if you can mark out with a square and cut to a line, its not essential. Having said that, some of the basic chop saws are fairly cheap, and will cut simple stuff quick and square. They do take up a fair bit of storage space though.

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Reply to
John Rumm

Do you want the bottom poking out like that? It makes it look like an airing cupboard with a hot water tank hidden inside it.

When I replaced the fitten cupboard the previous owners had ripped out of my house I simply attached battens to the side walls to hold up the shelves, a frame across the floor, ceiling, up each wall just behind the front, and planed timber fixed to the frame to form the surround, sized to match the doors I was fitting into it.

Here:

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Reply to
jgharston

I bought this book: Build Like a Pro: Trim Carpentry,

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Reply to
george [dicegeorge]

Carpentry,

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> [g]

Basically as others have said, build a box and slide it in then finish off with a frame of moulding around the outside. You may be able to pick up some fancy skirting that might do as moulding.

If you use chipboard for the basic box you can just screw it together as the screws won't be seen, (This works, we do it regularly) Alternatives would be :

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using these the two parts of the joint have to be firmly clamped as the action of driving in the screw can cause the joint to squirm. Cover caps for various colours are available and are quite good.

You can wedge the box in position if you dont want to screw it to the wall or tilt it back a fraction with a few wedges. If wedging place the wedges beside the shelves to stop the sides from bowing inwards.

Once its firmly in position its not going to go anywhere.

Its not really a difficult job. The expertise is in trimming out around the box.

Paul Mc Cann

Reply to
fred

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Thanks John,

What you say makes sense. I think I need to go and buy a router.

Just another question - you mention using MDF for the doors. How does MDF look when it's been routed? Do you get a good painted finish or should I just use pine?

Charlie

Reply to
Charlie

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?title=Desk_bookshelf
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?title=Cabinet_clock>>>> Details on them here:

Yup, probably the first of a few (they can be a bit habit forming!)

It routes ok, although you get a slightly fluffy edge. ok if you seal with something, sand, and then finish again though.

Pine is ok, its nicer to route, and a tad easier to finish, but then again will "move" a bit more with changes in humidity, so you need to take a bit more care with large doors etc.

You can even get hardwood veneered MDF for show work if not painting, Note you would need to usually lip it in hardwood though so as not to show any cut ends.

Reply to
John Rumm

Be interesting where viewer sites ... with that table and damn big vase & plant in the way.

Reply to
Rick Hughes

I am planning to do one of these. I do not plan to use a router at all. You= can get exactly the same effect by pinning / glueing on off-the-shelf moul= dings. Only advantage to doing it "properly" is nice visible dovetailed joints and= a sense of satisfaction. And whats the use of that ;-) Simon.

Reply to
sm_jamieson

ou can get exactly the same effect by pinning / glueing on off-the-shelf mo= uldings.

nd a sense of satisfaction. And whats the use of that ;-)

To be honest Simon, that was my first thought.

Reply to
Charlie

You can get exactly the same effect by pinning / glueing on off-the-shelf = mouldings.

and a sense of satisfaction. And whats the use of that ;-)

Oh go on, do it "properly" ! Simon.

Reply to
sm_jamieson

l. You can get exactly the same effect by pinning / glueing on off-the-shel= f mouldings.

ts and a sense of satisfaction. And whats the use of that ;-)

Thanks for the all the advice - finally got the go ahead from SWMBO and am ready to head off the the builder's merchant.

Can anyone suggest what material I should use?

Plywood for the frame? Planed timber (pine?) for the shelves? Sheet timber (pine?) for the cupboard top and doors?

Charlie

Reply to
Charlie

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Just wanted to thank everyone for all the useful advice they gave me. I am usually quite back a posting back with feedback once I've finished a job but thought I drop a quick photo of the finished article.

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need to make some 11" skirting boarding now....

Reply to
Charlie

Jolly nice too - though you might want to lop .jpg off that link in order to get it to work!

Nick

Reply to
Nick Odell

:

Nice. If you took pcitures as you went along, you could put them on the wiki with instructions.

NT

Reply to
NT

Nice job, well done!

Reply to
John Rumm

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