Search on "scarf joint"; there are lots of variations depending on what
tools/skills you have.
If you're painting rather than varnishing then any method (even a simple
butt with a mortised mending plate behind) + filler then sanding would do.
45 degree joint is the best and if you can glue it you should be able to sand it down, once painted it will be invisible. Butt jointing will always show no matter how much you sand and fill due to the natural movement of the wood.
As will any other joint! As for your "45 degree joint", it is well to
remember that timber generally only moves in thickness and width and very,
very seldom in length - so theoretically, when using skirting straight from
the merchants, butt jointing is usually best.
To get the best results. leave the timber in the room it is to be fitted for
a few weeks to get rid of any excessive moisture and 'bend' to any shape
that it wants. Once any movement has stopped - then fix it. If you do that,
then you will have more success if you want to use any 'fancy' jointing
Which reminds me. As a young apprentice way back in 19 nought dot, I once
dovetailed skirting at its joints in a rather large cupboard - and won the
bet of a shilling - along with a bollocking of the old chippie for wasting
All great fun the them days.
Because you *SCRIBE* internal angles - you get a better fit, especially when
moulded or round-edge skirting is used.
BTW, that is quite literally a "butt" joint that follows the shape of the
moulding[s] - and easily done after first cutting a mitre on the end of the
board and following the outline of the moulded shape at the base with a
coping saw and leaving a small 'relief' angle on the back of the board to
make an even better fit if wall corners are out-of-square.
Because shrinkage in the thickness of the timber will tend to lessen the
mitre angles, and hence open up a visible gap on the inside of the joint
(i.e. the room facing side). With an external corner the same happens,
but the internal corner is against the wall and hence less visible.
+1 . Picture frames illustrate the problems with mitres very well, which
is why the wider profiles were often machined in sections and t&g'd
together to stagger the gaps. IME timber needs to be below 10% moisture
content to avoid this happening
I normally scarf joint straight runs - not because timber movement makes
much different (it does not move much along the grain direction), but it
gives a bit of extra lateral stability to the joint (plus more glue /
fixing area), and leaves a line that is slightly less predictable to the
eye and hence harder to see.
e.g. when I needed to make a cabinet top cove section that could break
down into separate sections, I used a variety of joint angles on the
different components, and once painted its very hard to work out where
the joint is:
45 degrees is the norm. I've got several joins like that in my house,
and they're all ok after a number of years.
One thing which you *could* try which had ought to work (although I've
never done it myself) is to butt the ends, and create a biscuit joint.
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