Insulating converted loft

=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D\

=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0|

=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0|

=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D/

I think if the insulation were cut as a snug fit, it would get stuck as you tried to push it up. Also there will be some variance in the gap between any two rafters. Either it will get stuck or you will have an air gap. If you can bite the bullet and pull the existing PB off, that's most of the mess out of the way in one session. I really would do this properly; we did ours to regs (then 5 inches deep) and the difference is phenominal. You'll thank yourself for doing it.

Cheers Richard

Reply to
geraldthehamster
Loading thread data ...

=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D\

=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0|

=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D/

Sorry, I don't mean an air gap. You want an air gap, in the traditional sense, behind the boards. I meant you'd get gaps between the boards and the joists, creating cold spots and the potential for condensation.

Cheers Richard

Reply to
geraldthehamster

if the room underneath is inhabited then you dont have to insulate the floor.

easiest could be to stick kingspan or celotex to the inside of the walls or ceilings, using long screws of pink dryfix foam, then stick plasterboard to that.

But you'd lose 6 inches.

[g]
Reply to
george [dicegeorge]

As I think someone has already mentioned, insulation in the floor of a loft conversion is there for fire prevention. I believe this is a building regs requirement for new conversions above the first floor.

Cheers Richard

Reply to
geraldthehamster

I agree, in the sense that yes doing it without the original PB in place will be easier and more effective. I was just highlighting that with the insulation in contact with the back of the exiting PB, there will be little scope for the kind of drafts that would render the insulation ineffective, since the only air available will be that in the actual gaps etc. You will get the cold bridging of the joists thought.

I think the order of preference (in terms of results and quality of job) would be to:

1) strip the existing PB, insulate between and under the rafters, then re board. 2) Dry line under the existing PB, or 3) attempt to retro fit insulation behind the exiting PB.

Only do 2 if you really can't face 1, and only do 3 if you really can't afford the loss of headroom from 2!

Reply to
John Rumm

There are heaps of other building control requirements for loft conversions creating habitable rooms. This sounds like a very 'informal' conversion.

Robert

Reply to
RobertL

=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D\

=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0|

=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0|

=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D/

To be honest, I would love to strip the whole room, properly fit insulation etc but it's just not feasible, option 2 would cause a loss of headroom and that would not be very good seeing as I can *just* stand upright without touching the ceiling. Anyway, just to confirm, will this board be okay and can I insulate the walls too?

formatting link

Reply to
David

the right sort of stuff.

Reply to
John Rumm

=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D\

=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0|

=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0|

=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D/

Can I ask where you bought yours from? The price shown on the SF website is for 5 boards but minimum order is 10.

Reply to
David

:

=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D\

=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0|

=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D/

Actually BnQ have quite a variety at what seems to be a good price. Also the depth of the rafters is 80mm, would 60mm insulation cause any damp?

formatting link

Reply to
David

APCO Insulation in Benfleet Essex.

8x4' sheets of 50mm were (at the time) £12 for seconds, and £14 for new. Discount on top of that for quantity.

Contact:

APCO Insulation,

77 Stanway Road, Benfleet, Essex,

01268 565 055

That's mostly polystyrene rather than PIR foam - a bit over only half the insulation value for the depth...

As long as air can flow then you should be ok.

Reply to
John Rumm

Regulations April 2002". This may have been true for loft conversions (but not new-builds) then, but the requirements of Part L have changed twice since then, including the renovation of thermal elements which have to be upgraded to a maximum U-value of 0.18W/m^2K; it certainly won't comply for any work you intended to carry out today.

Reply to
Hugo Nebula

Thanks for the information, I am still on the look out for insulation at a cheaper price anyway.

Reply to
gremlin_95

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.