I've always preferred the quiet controlled thud of nail into joist to the agonised squealing of the screw as it hits a knot or some other obstacle :-) Also, IME those screws never quite countersink fully
A fair point, but "quiet"?
I'll be laying those fibrous mats (for going under laminate flooring) so perhaps the odd slightly proud screwhead won't matter too much, if at all. Different brands of screw differ widely in how well they sink in, in my experience.
So I took the easy way out and used 170mm loft insulation, which can be pushed past the obstructions, especially if you're quick and manipulate it before it expands to its final size. Held it up with polypropylene twine strung in a zig zag between staggered clout nails into the inside faces of the joists, although it mostly holds itself up.
But how did you get it under there? Did you lift some floorboards and feed it from above or did you crawl under the floor?
Robert
I know what you mean, but the stuff I used was, to my surprise, apparently innocuous. Just the regular Wickes roll but, contrary to expectations, not a single itch. Dunno if they've changed the formulation somehow or if I'm just more thick-skinned than I used to be. I'm sure the plastic-covered stuff would work fine, possibly better, and I don't think it would take significantly more effort to fit. I didn't get it because it seemed so expensive by comparison.
To be honest, I think most of what it achieves is to stop draughts coming up through the boards as heated air in the house rises, and I was almost tempted to just staple some roofing membrane across the bottoms of the joists to baffle the flow. Trouble was, that would still have left the problem of all the 'stuff' (cables, pipes etc) it would have crossed or made difficult to access.
It was over the cellar, so relatively simple being, effectively, a low ceiling.
spax make a special floorboard screw with a second thread to pull them down. [g]
I didn't know about that. Thanks.
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