Installing a loft floor

GMM · 2012-10-17T10:49:05+00:00

Sorry chaps, a bit of a long post but I have tried to get all the essential= information in (!) Undoubtedly=20there will be something I've missed out, even so....I have to build a floor in a loft. At first this will provide a platform f=or some roof timber repairs to be=20carried out but ultimately it will be used for storage, not living space, s=o there are no formal BR=20requirements but, of course, I=92d like it to be robust enough that it does=n=92t all wind up in the bedroom below.At present, there is a lath and plaster ceiling, with rather wimpy-looking =ceiling joists, so not the most=20stable platform to work on. It=92s in pretty good condition (as a ceiling,= not a floor) so I=92d like to keep it=20that way, which means installing joists clear of the ceiling timbers. This= will, of course, create a void=20for a good depth of insulation.So question 1: To work above the ceiling, I=92m thinking of supporting it =with boards on acro jacks,=20possibly moving these according to where I=92m working as I go and putting =some boards on the ceiling=20joists to spread the load (mostly me!). Does this sound like a sensible th=ing to do =96 ie any better=20suggestions?One side of the space is an internal wall and the other side is a chimney b=reast with single-brick party=20walls in the recesses each side (these look pretty weak). Each end is the =outside wall of the house=20running up about 60cm from the ceiling to the eaves of the roof. Since the= shorter span (about 4m) is=20from the internal wall to the chimney breast/party wall, the joists for the= new floor will run this way (ie=20parallel to the outside walls).The plan is to use ledger boards (wall plates if you prefer) and joist hang=ers to mount 50 x 200mm=20(-ish) joists at 400mm centres. I know that socketing into the brick is fa=voured by some but that isn=92t=20going to happen for many good reasons. To avoid going near the single-bric=k party wall, I=92ll have to=20use trimmers across the...

Oct 17, 2012 61 Replies

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GMM 13 years ago

Thanks for doing that John, it's very interesting: It looks like 150 at C24 is pretty much comparable to 195 at C16 in terms of deflection: I didn't think the difference between the two would be anywhere near as much, from the other information I've seen. Of course, the C24 may be more expensive even in the smaller size (I'll have to get a quote) but if it's not too much more, the extra 2" might be a useful space saving: It would certainly reduce the step up onto this floor from the new access door, which might make it more user friendly.

(It took me a while to get back - I've been away for a few days and it seems Firefox can't connect to the server from other networks)

All the best

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John Rumm 13 years ago

I remember when I did my loft conversion that there was some C24 specified (most was C16). It took the timber merchant about an extra week to order that in for me. Hence it may not be as readily stocked.

Thunderbird perhaps?

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