How many thungs can you do wrong designing an underfloor heating mixer?

Bearing in mind this is the cheapest assembly I could get - and the hydraulic components are all standard (and look of sufficient quality).

Other units with similar components cost twice the price (like £300, I kid you not!). This one was at least not much more than the sum of the important parts including a Grundfos pump.

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I am however amazed by the ability of some fab shop to c*ck up the overall assembly:

1) The pump fouls the surface this is attached too (rear projection of pump centrifuge inlet). All it needed was the mounting plate to be bent with longer ears to bolt the clamps to.

That can be solved by packing it out from the wall on washers or wood. I might try for thick penny washers interleaves with heavy rubber washers to give a bit of vibration isolation in addition to the bands that go under the pipe clamps.

2) Stupid: Grey box. 2 cables. 2 glands. So let's heatshrink the cables together and take them in one gland and make the strain relief questionable. And use a small box so everything is wedged in tight.

3) Worrying: 2 single insulated (as far as I can see) tails for the thermostat, running into the end of an exposed conductive part and no means of earthing.

The device carries no markers to indicate Class I or Class II, although an earth terminal is provided (for looping through to the pump)/

I do not believe it meets the criteria for a Class II appliance. If I were to use it as is, I would want to earth it. Not as easy as it seems

- either a banjo and a pair of brass nuts on the thermostat thread, or an earth bonding pipe clamp on the main feed pipe in. No point in bonding to the backplate - insulated by rubber from the hydraulics.

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I might be of a mind to chase this up with the manufacturer if I can find them, or trading standards (I think the reseller won't understand the issues).

I however will sideskirt the problem, by ignoring the stat (which was the subject of another thread).

Think I'm going to U turn on my last theory to use a radio controlled rad valve and use a normal zone valve, with the contacts controlling the pump, assuming the contacts are beefy enough[1]

1 - Pump is max
Reply to
Tim Watts
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In message , Tim Watts writes

Not been following closely but.... thermostats can be fitted to the manifold to protect the heating circuit from mixer valve failures where this is not limited by the boiler o/p temp.

Reply to
Tim Lamb

The instructions mention 43C - which suggests this one is N/O and closes when hot water appears. I will test that with a meter in a moment. Also, it's in the wrong place for O/H protection.

But you're quite right - over heat protection would be a very good idea

- shoving 60C+ (upto 90C if the boiler gets run to max) would be very very bad for the screed!

I'm just going to put 13A plugs on the pump tails for now via a 13A ZWave switch that's controlled by my heating system. I'll figure out how it likes to run then wire it in properly to suit. I'm certainly thinking of including an O/H pipe stat as a fail safe, but I think you can buy those as a separate unit and clip them on.

Reply to
Tim Watts

I save all my non-ferrous 2p pieces for this situation.

Drill a hole and voila, a non-rustable washer.

Reply to
Andrew

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