A chassis punch hole cutter normally used for front panel holes.
Qmax type. I bought a set many years ago, even then it cost 35 pounds
for 5 cutters and a reamer. I have used a step drill succesfully, But
it needed a lot of care. Go slowly.
On Tue, 14 Jun 2016 09:01:43 -0700 (PDT), firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
How 'about' do you want? Octal valve holder chassis punch, 1 1/8"
(1.125") IIRC. Still got one somewhere.
Or this punch, 1.28" on Ebay, http://tinyurl.com/ja6e5gt if you're
prepared to fork out ~£17
Or a Toolstation hole saw from this list http://tinyurl.com/htfkoxq
probably the cheapest. But you'll need the arbor and pilot drill,
On Tuesday, 14 June 2016 19:32:32 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
Surely this can be done with a knife. It's what canopeners do. The question in my mind is what sort of knife, and what to rest the can base on etc.
Punches are overly expensive for a few cans, and IMLE distort the f out of what they cut. Holesaws are possible, but it sounds a painful option.
In the absence of the suggested hole cutter... mark out the required
hole on the bottoms of your tins. Fix a length of squared timber
(hardwood best) vertically in your bench vice and place your first tin
over the end. Take your cheap but recently sharpened wood chisel and
mallet and gently cut along the line. Move the tin to fresh wood as the
surface becomes indented.
Tidy rough edges with a flapwheel in your electric drill.
Depends on what sort of hole you want to end up with quality wise.
They only work very well when cutting the entire base of the food can away.
You likely could get away with a big round
end of a log of the same diameter as the
base of the can with the can sitting on top
of that and stabbing thru the metal into that
if you don’t care how rough the hole ends up.
But fine if you can borrow one.
Not with a proper chassis punch.
You should be able to do it with a dremel
if you don’t need an accurate and clean hole.
On 6/14/2016 8:30 PM, email@example.com wrote:
No, look at how they work. They rely on being located close to the
rolled seam, which is much stiffer than the relatively unsupported sheet
metal in the centre of the base. The Qmax type punch relies on the fact
that the two sides are maintained concentric, and they are a relatively
If you want to do this repeatedly on the same sized can, you need to
make a wood insert which is a reasonably close fit, then drill through
from the outside with a hole saw (preferably mounted in a pillar drill),
supporting the base on the wood insert.
Used properly, hole punches should not distort the main part badly
unless the cutter is blunt. Moly disulphide paste may help (also worth
putting it on the cap screw thread).
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