There used to be an iron called scope (may still get them)it had a small copper tip it had a ring or button on the handle that pushed a carbon tip to contact the copper. It was supplied by a 3 volt 30 amp transformer and if you held the thing on too long the tip glowed
My no longer new low voltage Antex has a separate sensor. So four wires (plus ground) in the flex.
Ah, same as mine (mine's 50W, which I think is older - bought it in
1980 IIRC, one of the best tool purchases I have ever made). I always use the 800F bits, even for delicate electronics, and that's lead/tin solder too (most of my component stock predates lead-free).Yes, although I've never tried 900F.
I run my Antex at 400C - and that's at the upper end of what I need for
60/40.I did try lead free and gave up with it in short order. Long before it was realised all the problems it causes.
Must admit I've never used lead-free electrical solder, but that's partly because I've read all the problems it causes, and as I said, my component stock is mainly leaded.
I do use both lead-free and leaded solder for plumbing, and can't claim to have noticed much difference in use.
It's not harder to use as such, just different. You need to get the hang of how to use it. Things like solder paste only come in unleaded versions these days.
If you don't get it hot enough, unleaded looks like it's melting but flows badly. So the main thing is to have a hot enough iron and sufficient flux. I'm not sure if the unleaded stuff has less added flux, or if the flux evaporates too quick at the highest temperature. Extra flux plus a flux clean session afterwards does help (solder paste seems to be about 75% flux, so maybe that's why it works so well but leaves huge deposits behind).
I've now got the 900F bit for my iron, and have been doing some test battery soldering. It seems to be doing the trick nicely - soldering zinc-carbon Ds is quite quick and straightforward. It struggled a bit on tinning a bean can - not surprising when the workpiece is one big heatsink - but managed it OK with some patience. It oxidises scarily quickly and generally gets worryingly hot when you aren't using it, so it's important to switch it off if you aren't going to be using it for a few mins or more. In all cases plenty of flux makes a world of difference.
Theo
Lead free solder sucks and fortunately the lead-tin form is still available, even as pastes for SMT work.
Maplin don't stock 'proper' lead/tin solder, nor do B&Q now.
Fortunately I still have enough in stock from working days to see me out :-)
I only buy it in decent sized reels and all the proper electronics suppliers have a variety of lead solder.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.