High level bog cistern

[Tim S]

I've never hung a cistern before. Got a high level jobbie for hopefully a better flush.

The hanging went well - it's dangling on 2 M8 stainless studs chemical mortared into the wall (bloody celcon blocks - I don't trust plugs for such a heavy load). Not going to fall off. Ever.

However - the flush pipe drop isn't quite right and looks like it needs the cistern packing out at the bottom by about 15-20mm and about 10mm at the top.

This could be achieved by a piece of batten across the back and some packers betwixt the cistern and the wall around the bolts.

I don't see an issue with this - but having never done one before, is it normal to have to shove bits of packing behind cisterns to bring them off the wall?

Cheers

Tim

[BigWallop]

The down pipe from the cistern should allow for cutting to the position of the bowl. If the down pipe has been cut before, it may need lengthend on the horizontal to match up with the pan in your new setting.

I was always asked, many years ago, when these were the normal flush loo's, to replace the older cast pipes for new plastic pipe. The only way to do it then, was to buy the length of pipe and a solvent weld natural bend. Not an elbow. A swept bend. So when you're out buying the new pipe, ask the merchant for a "90 degree Swept Bend" and a new rubber flush inlet gasket to suit the size of the new pipework. (32mm or 40mm)

[Tim S]

BigWallop coughed up some electrons that declared:

Hi,

Slight misunderstanding... There's enough pipe (it's metal).

What's happening is the pipe isn't sitting parallel to the wall - it's trying to push back into the wall. Something isn't straight (no surprise).

By packing the base of the cistern out, I'm changing the angle to allow the pipe to swing forward without straining the pipe-flush valve coupling.

Ta

Tim

[BigWallop]

Ah Ha!! No surprise at things not be striaght, right enough. Can you put an offset in the downpipe to allow it to sit properly? Does the downpipe have an offset than can be manouvered to allow the thing to seat in better?

It will probably take a huge bending spring to make an offset, but easier if you have access to a pile of sand? If you can get hold of enough dry sand, seal the ends of the pipe after packing out the pipe tightly with the sand and try to go for a bend. If you try this method, make sure the sand is packed really tightly in the whole length of pipe.

Or seek the help of your blacksmith with a large pipe bender to make a sure off set in the pipe for you.

[Tim S]

BigWallop coughed up some electrons that declared:

It's the joy of pottery products - the top is level, the bottom isn't - in either plane. It's only a couple of mm out, but with a long pipe, that adds up fast.

Wonder if I can get some 2" lead pipe and go fully retro like the bog I grew up with...

Well, There is some slop in the pipe to cistern joint - but it's right on the limit.

I like the sand idea (I have loads). Never thought of that. The pipe has a swan neck double offset in it anyway - it would be a case of unsetting one of those bends a couple of degrees.

I think just bringing the bottom of the cistern forward a bit to re-align the angles might be easier - just wondered if it was the done thing?

Cheers

Tim

[BigWallop]

It seems it is going to have to be the done thing in this case. But you can hide a small block of timber at the back of the cistern, so it doesn't have to be a full length batten sticking out at either side. I hope. It is just to re-align the cistern to match the pipe, right? ..

[Tim S]

BigWallop coughed up some electrons that declared:

Yes - that's what I was thinking. I eased the mounting holes out with a diamond file before the first hanging (they weren't straight either) so it's got a little bit of pivot on the M8 studs.

That's what I'll do then - a bit of 18mm hidden behind the lower back and frame packers on the studs to tweak it until it's right. It's probably a good thing to pull it up against plastic and wood rather than plaster if it's not perfectly regular. And a bit of air flow behind it should avoid condensation.

The gap won't be at all obvious as it's of a design that doesn't sit tight to the wall at the edges anyway.

BTW I'm rejoicing at using resin studs - makes demounting and remounting a trivial excercise :)

I made a nice template out of a scrap of 4x2" with 2 square-on 8mm holes to locate the studs whilst the resin set. The 4x2 was held on to two temporary battens on the wall (making lining up a breeze and ensuring the studs were square and mm perfect. I'll be using that trick again.

Thanks

Tim

[BigWallop]

You're becoming more than a DIYer, Tim, me man. Starting to use jigs to line things up is starting to get into the professional arena. :-) lol

A couple of millimetres either way in any project is always a sign of perfection. ..

[Tim S]

BigWallop wibbled:

Actually it was more so the studs would actually even go through the 2 holes in the cistern at all[1] :) I was expecting to do some percussive adjustment on the studs, but it just slid on - that was good :)

I had some M6 A2 stainless stud as a fall back, but it felt rather bouncy so I aimed to make the M8 work. Not sure why people spend £££ for "proper" stainless stud fixings when a metre of A2 threaded bar can be had from Toolstation for a few pounds...

Cheers

Tim

[BigWallop]

So we can look forward to you being "Flush" now then? :-) lol