I'm quite sure that a few years ago you couold purchase Ronseal "Heavy Duty
Floor Varnish" which no longer seems to be available. This was oil/resin
based. Absolutely superb stuff. Amber in colour like Golden Syrup.
The current Ronseal "Diamond Hard" product is a clearly inferior water based
product. Much less hard wearing.
What is the heaviest duty floor varnish currently (and readily) available?
We used PV67 in our kitchen 2 years and it's only just starting to
show signs of wearing (and that's near the sink, where wear is
Many (15 or so) years ago I did our dining room wood block flooring with
what I think was a Rustins product. Can't remember it's name but it was
a 2 part thing where you mix a hardner with the "varnish" immediately before
brushing it on. I'm just thinking about redoing it after all this time, very
wearing (and a real PITA now when trying to scrape it off).
Does anyone know if such a product still exists?
I've heard good reports about Dulux Diamond Hardglaze - quite expensive.
Anyone tried it and have an opinion?
Oh _do_ give it a rest!
Firstly, it has been described twice as a immediate-catalysed (you only
mix it when you need it), and I even mentioned that it was an acid
catalyst(sic). That tells you it's one of the formaldehyde coatings, not
Secondly, if you look at the website that was so clearly cited, it even
tells you, "A two-part cold cure finish, based on Urea Formaldehyde
resins, plasticised with alkyd.".
Thirdly yacht varnish is crap on floors. The old stuff (spar varnish) is
poor for everything except elasticity, because it has all its work cut
out dealing with flexing timberwork. Great when you need that, otherwise
poor. The modern "yacht varnish" products are optimised instead for UV
resistance for outdoor use. Again they're great if that's what you need,
but they're too soft (and good spar varnish never even fully dries) for
Not directly related, but does anyone have any thoughts about using
danish oil on floors? I've got it in my bedrooms, and it still looks
great after three years, whereas the varnish downstairs is beginning
to wear. I know that bedrooms don't get much wear, but given that it
still looks great up there, and given that even when it does wear it's
just an hour's work to rub some more into the wood, I'm strongly
considering sanding the downstairs floors back to the bare wood and
It's not even necessary to do that. I use a product consisting of
boiled linseed oil, beeswax and turpentine which is applied
periodically when needed and maintained with beeswax. This is very
quick to do and maintain, even in small areas if wanted. and unlike
products containing varnishes, preserves the natural appearance of the
wood rather than making it look like plastic.
I don't see the point in putting varnishes, especially high gloss
varnishes, on wooden floors. It looks awful from the outset and
can't be maintained without taking the whole lot of and starting
Danish Oil seems to be a kind of halfway house. It does at least give
a low lustre to the surface. I've used it on certain worksurfaces,
and as you say, it can be refinished after wiping and cleaning with
white spirit. However, that has been the whole area. I do wonder
about suitability for heavy traffic floors - upstairs is one thing,
downstairs being another. It may be that you could use it if you
don't mind applying it to the whole floor. Some of the
manufacturers, e.g. Organoil, give a thumbs down to Danish Oil on
floors, whereas others like Rustins give a half hearted, tacit
acceptance while not really recommending it.
Thanks Andy, that sounds interesting. Are you saying that we could put
this stuff on the varnished floors without needing to sand back to
wood first? Wouldn't that just leave the uneven wear in the varnish
What IS this mystery product??
How it looks depends entirely on the skill of the person applying it.
For example, shellac in the right hands is a superb finish but, badly
applied, it can look like a toffee apple. Acid cat varnishes are
incredibly tough, perfectly transparent, and can look as glossy or as
matt as you like.
Beeswax is not remotely suitable for floor finishing, being too soft and
sticky. Doesn't protect anything, picks up dirt and eventually has to be
Makes no difference that it's with oil. It doesn't chemically combine
with it, but precipitates out on to the surface. Liquid at around 60
degC, and therefore often tacky at room temperature in summer.
It's still beeswax, and still the wrong material to use on a floor. The
old style polishes were based on a blend of waxes where the melting
point averaged out higher to allow for mechanical buffing. You can't
even buff beeswax by hand without it smearing
that would depend on how much is used.
The procedure is to apply the oil and to leave it for 10 minutes or so,
slightly longer for the first coat on untreated hardwood. Excess is
then removed. I generally repeat the treatment a further two
times, allowing to dry overnight after removing any excess. Finally
it's buffed with the floor polisher. At no stage are there patches of
wax, smearing etc. on the surface.
I've never had this issue, but as I said, I use it sparingly.
No it isn't.
Putting plastic crap on the floor is the wrong thing to use. You might
as well put down laminate if you're going to do that.
Who said anything about buffing it by hand? Again, it should be
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