Just installing some GU10 spots, but am unsure if I need to cover them with somthing?
The celing is plasterboed, and the loft is insulated with fiberglass wool (Whaterver it's called!)
The fittings are these...
The old lights were 60w R64 spots, but the fiberglass was just layed on top, and didn't cause any problems) (Somthing like this)
Ta!
Sparks...
In message , Sparks writes
Flowerpots, not plastic of course, even come with a hole for the cable :-)
I had a feeling this would be the cheapest, easiest solution, but AFAIK GU10's reflect the heat forward, so do I actually need to bother?
I have tuned them on, and the back doesn't seem to be getting that hot!
Sparks...
Read the instructions which came with the fittings. Most say something like "must have free flow of air around rear" and "keep 100mm or more away from combustible surface". At the very least I'd cut a section of loft insulation out around the fitting.
As you say though, this is less of a problem with GU10 than with GZ10. I assume the fitting you have is GU10-only so there's no chance of a numpty in future fitting a (dichroic) GZ10?
Hwyl!
M.
No instructions were suppled with them :-( I have cut the insulation away above them!
I thought GZ10's would physically fit in a GU10 hole anyway (I have never had an GZ10's to try though), in wich case, no matter what they are designed for, it is possible I suppose!
Sparks...
A GU10 has a bevel/chamfer/whatever you call it on its base, whereas a GZ10 is "square". A GU-only fitting has a corresponding shape in the lampholder whereas a GZ fitting doesn't. Thus a GU fitting will not take a GZ bulb, while a GZ fitting will take either GU or GZ.
Since, as you note, GU10s are Al reflectors and tend to reflect most of the heat and light forwards GU-only fittings can be made with materials which are not as heatproof as you might think. GZ fittings, on the other hand, must be able to cope with (for example) a 50W dichroic which throws most of the heat backwards and are therefore made of sterner stuff.
Hwyl!
M.
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