Glass Cutting query

Bertie Doe · 2013-07-31T10:01:46+00:00

I have a flat sold workbench in the shed, I also have a 1 metre steel rule and stout gloves. 1. What's regarded as a good make of cutter, that's available on ebay? There is a local Homebase, but they're a bit pricey. 2. How difficult is it to cut a radius? I have a couple of sheets of 60cm x 30cm (2' x 1') Horticultural grade glass and would like to cut say, a 120mm (5") radius, in two of the corners. The local guy in the hardware store, is reluctant to cut radii. TIA.

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Adrian Brentnall 13 years ago

Should be OK - take it gently!

Most glass folks will use a variation on a wheel-based cutter.

I use mostly pistol-grip cutters (3rd one along on this page)

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but that's just because I find them easier, and it's less strain on the wrists after a day cutting glass. The 'pencil-grip' type should be fine for what you're doing. Experiment to find a way of holding it that lets you get enough pressure, without stopping you from being able to 'guide' it.

Find a spare bit of window-glass, and cut a 2"-wide strip. Then start off making short cuts across the glass to make it into 2" squares (if it's a bit second-hand, don;t forget to clean it well first. The slightest bit of grit on the glass will make your cutter 'skip', and that's not going to help.)

Once you've got a stack of perfect 2" squares. Cut yourself another strip, and then practice cutting 's'-shaped lines across it.

Once you've done that, you'll have got the feel of it, and you should be able to have a go at the actual job.

Adrian

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Reentrant 13 years ago

I believe the crack propagates at the speed of sound in the material.(Googles ...) - yes, approx 11,000mph for glass.

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docholliday93 13 years ago

Agreed - you want to avoid stress concentrations apart from the one along your cutting line... If you happen to have some pliers like these

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then use those rather than ordinary pliers - but still put a piece of gaffer tape on each jaw. (I hadn't realised they still made them - mine came from a secondhand shop many years ago...)

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harryagain 13 years ago

A diamond cutter is the best. You must get the cut in a single "stroke". If you do it again, the crack runs off the line. You can also get a tool like pilers that "folds" the glass to break it.

Cutting a hole requires a "compass" device to get a single circulat cut that joins exctly. More smaller concentric scores are made and about twelve radial ones. They must not cross the outer ring. The glass is broken out from the centre by tapping it. Only works on new glass. I have had a high cockup rate too.

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stuart noble 13 years ago

Ever tried cutting a radius with a standard cutter? I have

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Bertie Doe 13 years ago

Google brings up 'Toyo' a lot in the mid-price range:-

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Adrian Brentnall 13 years ago

Yes - that particular one is a 'Chinese copy' - see the line "These are not TOYO HEADS OR HANDLES just same style".

But - having said that, they're half the price of the genuine item - and would be perfectly fine for occasional use. I have both the pukka Toyo, and 'copy' Toyo cutters in the workshop, and I tend to use whichever one's closest at the time - I'm not sure I can tell the difference between them.

If you're feeling extravagant , the same supplier will do you a pair of 'no name' grozing pliers for under 9 quid.

Adrian

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The Medway Handyman 13 years ago

Nothing to it. Dead easy.

If you sign a pact with the Devil....

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The Medway Handyman 13 years ago

Not quite accurate Chris;

1) Buy glass cutter 2) Scribe radius and attempt to break glass along it 3) Glass breaks in entirely the wrong direction and is discarded 4) repeat 2) and 3) on second piece of glass 4a) apply plasters to cut fingers 5) go to glazier and get it done professionally

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Bertie Doe 13 years ago

Still at the project planning stage. I'll try using tape on some bull-nosed pliers. The duct tape will also come in handy, if I run out of Elastoplast.

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