Getting a tap apart?

Hello all... I have an Ideal Standard tap the same as can anyone tell me if the tapered part on the upper part of the tap body should be removeable and if so how to do it? It appears to be 'solid'... The tap turns okay b ut no water... Any suggestions?

Richard.

Reply to
Ardamerr
Loading thread data ...

Have you tried turning it either way, as I would initially expect that it would unscrew from the bottom part.

Reply to
Bob H

can anyone tell me if the tapered part on the upper part of the tap body should be removeable and if so how to do it? It appears to be 'solid'... The tap turns okay but no water... Any suggestions?

I'd expect that there's a screw holding the tap knob onto its shaft, either under the white central C/H logo in the top of the knob, or in the side of the knob screwed sideways into the tap shaft. Once you've loosened that the knob should come off.

Then the tapered section should just unscrew from the bit under it, though it might be pretty stiff. I should think the taper would make it tricky to get a good grip on it with a wrench. There might just be some slight 'flats' on the lowest part of the taper allowing a wide wrench to fit over them. If you have to exert a lot of force trying to loosen the tapered bit be sure to use your other hand to apply a counter-force on the spout of the tap to prevent the whole tap from rotating in its socket in the sink, as loosening that or - worst case - damaging the seal between tap and supply pipe will make the whole job much more complicated.

Reply to
Jeremy Nicoll - news posts

It should just screw off but you ahve metal, water and lime all mixed together... They can be a right begger to get off, try a soaking in lime scale remover, try and get some down between the shaft and cover. Gentle taps with a small hammer around the base, put a couple of layers of paper between hammer and cover to try and reduce marking. There ought to be some flats around the bottom of the cover tightly fit a wrench (adjustable) again with a sheet of paper, and try shifting it. Gentle taps with hammer in righty tighty and lefty loosey directions. Brace the tap body to stop it rotating in the basin.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

Got these taps

Remove cover from tap top Remove screw inside. Remove tap head with a sharp tap (sic!) - usually seized. Remove tapered top with a wrench if you dont care about cratching or a strap wrench if you so Suggerst removing complete tap anyway to get force on it

Remove tap mechanism from body with wrench in a vice.

Replace washer discover tap now leaks at connector Replace connector washer. Discover tap now leaks at gland. Remove tap throw away and fit new tap :-=)

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

The handle needs to come off, there will be a disc on top, they either unscrew or prise off to reveal a screw.

Unscrew that, beat handle until it comes off - they are normally stuck.

Cloth & a pair of grips on tapered part, unscrew that to reveal the head gear.

Remove that with spanner. Check the circlip at the top is still in place, if so, remove it & tap shaft out.

Whats happened is that the shaft has unscrewed from the bit holding the washer. Left hand thread. Screw it back in fully, replace circlip.

Or replace it. Wilkinsons & B&Q sell them cheaply & they are pretty universal.

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

Richard.

Most of them, the "buttons" on top (with H&C on) prise out and there is a screw underneath to remove the handle. Some have a grub screw on the side.

The chrome tapered bit just unscrews. Best done witha strap wrench otherwise the chrome gets damaged with say pipe grips.

Underneath that is usually a hexagonal bit that again unscrews toacess the washer.

Reply to
harryagain

me if the tapered part on the upper part of the tap body should be removeab le and if so how to do it? It appears to be 'solid'... The tap turns okay but no water... Any suggestions?

I'm really very grateful to all... I have now done the job with your help. .. I should perhaps mention for others who may experience the same difficu lty that the shroud was absolutely solid due to 'limescale' -- I soaked abo ut a 30cm length of linen cloth with 'Harpic' (slightly acid) and left it ' bandaged' around the lower part of the shroud for about an hour or so, also I squirted a small quantity of the same Harpic down the shaft and in conta ct with the inside of the shroud... The result was, within about one minut e a 'bubble' reaction and frothing around the inside of the shroud... As I said, after about 60 - 70 minutes my wife was able to unscrew the shroud ( in a clockwise direction) with just her fingers... So all is now well... A big 'thank you' to everyone...

Kindest regards... Richard.

Reply to
Ardamerr

Thanks very much Dave for this explanation it was extremely instructive and helpful... Grateful thanks...

Richard.

Reply to
Ardamerr

l me if the tapered part on the upper part of the tap body should be remove able and if so how to do it? It appears to be 'solid'... The tap turns ok ay but no water... Any suggestions?

p... I should perhaps mention for others who may experience the same diffi culty that the shroud was absolutely solid due to 'limescale' -- I soaked a bout a 30cm length of linen cloth with 'Harpic' (slightly acid) and left it 'bandaged' around the lower part of the shroud for about an hour or so, al so I squirted a small quantity of the same Harpic down the shaft and in con tact with the inside of the shroud... The result was, within about one min ute a 'bubble' reaction and frothing around the inside of the shroud... As I said, after about 60 - 70 minutes my wife was able to unscrew the shroud (in a clockwise direction) with just her fingers... So all is now well... A big 'thank you' to everyone...

Oh! Dear... Oh! Dear... ABOVE, I SHOULD HAVE SAID 'As I said, after about

60 - 70 minutes my wife was able to unscrew the shroud (in an ANTI-clockwis e direction) with just her fingers...
Reply to
Ardamerr

I don't think anyone actually said to turn the water off before unscrewing the headgear. I assume you did this, otherwise you'd have got very wet?!

Reply to
Roger Mills

I often change headgear with the water on!

All you need is a big towel & the ability to work quickly:-)

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

If you're replacing it with a new one, maybe. And, in your case, that's probably cheapest for the customer.

But the rest of us are likely to dismantle the headgear, clean it up and lubricate it, and then put it back.

I wouldn't fancy doing that with the water turned on!

Reply to
Roger Mills

That could make you a trifle damp :-)

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.