Just to update the thread, I tested the fan on separate mains and it ran fine. Turned out the air pressure switch was stuck, which the Potterton troubleshooting flow chart pointed me to. Cleaning it out resulted in a working heater. :)
Thanks.
Are you saying that because the air pressure switch wasn't working the fan wasn't coming on? That's puzzling me because AIUI on these boilers the fan runs whenever mains is applied regardless of the air pressure switch, but the latter has to operate to make the boiler light.
The fan was off when the air pressure switch was stuck in the wrong position. I removed the fan from the boiler and tested it separately and it ran fine. I replaced it, and as soon as the pressure switch was cleaned and went back to the correct position, the fan started and the boiler ignited. That's all I can tell you :)
If the switch has stuck in the fan proved position may boilers will not begin the ignition cycle. Its a safety thing:-)
Yes there are on Baxi/Potterton's for instance two levels of checking the pressure switch. Boiler turned on, go check pressure switch to see it is off, then turn on fan then check pressure switch to check it is on. That is to ensure it isn't stuck in the on position.
In message , Phillip Brown writes
Nooooooo!!!
Go and spend a tenner at Maplins and get a multimeter
A neon screwdriver will tell you that there's probably something with volts on it somewhere within a 100m radius
In message , Phillip Brown writes
Somebody phoned me up with exactly the same fault on Tuesday, was it you ? (brain dead, I can't remember)
if not ...
If you had a recon netaheat fan from me (CET), then it's very unlikely that the fan has died. They have new motors on, and I out of over 1000 which have gone out in the last two years, I have had one motor fail.
Assuming that mains is getting to the pcb, it goes to the overheat stat which, if not short circuit, won't power the fan. If the air pressure switch has either bad contacts or has welded itself in the wrong position, the fan won't start either
Really, you need to put mains across the fan motor and see if it runs directly off the mains. If it does, your problem lies elsewhere, either the O/h stat, the pcb or the APS.
If you want leading through how to do this, phone me on 01923 229224. I'm not just there to sell recon stuff, I also try and offer a bit of support
In message , John Stumbles writes
Not when set to the correct range and put across 230 volts
Neon screwdrivers are like spurs - only used by cowboys
In message , Phillip Brown writes
Ignore my posts then ... I'm still working through what I missed over the new year
No, it's a safety feature which also tests the air pressure switch, as we have seen here. The air pressure switch must be in the normally closed position and have good ohmic contact.
If the APS had welded itself in the normally open position, in your understanding, the pcb could light the boiler if the fan wasn't working
Much the same as a nelectronic multimeter...
A nelectronic multimeter?
I expect so
In message , Phillip Brown writes
Could be
Is there mains across the live and neutral on the pcb ?
... you can't test this properly with a neon screwdriver - throw it away and get a multimeter
In message , BigWallop writes
And ... was it one of mine ?
If so, as I said in an earlier post, I've (CET) had a ~ 0.1% failure rate on these fan motors, so it's unlikely
Is there 230 volts across the fan ?
I can always be reached on 01923 229224 if you need walking through problem solving
In message , Phillip Brown writes
CET is on a messianic crusade here
Chuck the screwdriver and get a multimeter
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