Garage floor problem

I have a problem with rainwater getting in under my garage door onto the concrete floor. I need to provide some sort of "lip" (about 25-30 mm high) to prevent this. Should I use concrete for this or just mortar?
Regards and thanks in advance,
Syke
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 18/07/2012 22:45, Syke wrote:

I wouldn't use either. I'd get a piece of 1" square mild steel tubing the right length to fit across the doorway, and screw it to the floor just inside the door (with some sealant under it if necessary). That will stay put far better than mortar, etc. and you'll be able to drive over it quite happily.
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Roger Mills expressed precisely :

I had the same problem, but with the addition of the prevalent winds driving the rain directly onto the door. Originally I had an up and over type and despite adding a batten sealed to the floor, the water still managed to get in.
When I originally built the garage, I made the error of making the floor slab perfectly level. Doing it again I would always incline it just slightly towards the entrance door. I later built an 10 foot extension on the rear and inclined that by 1/2" over the 10' towards its separate, but equally exposed entrance door. No problems with ingress there.
On changing to a powered roller (which has a rubber seal along the bottom) I removed the batten, but still had the problem of ingress occasionally, so I cut a channel along just to the outside of the door in the concrete leading to a drain. I then added some shallow slots in the concrete leading from the channel at 90 deg to and slightly past the door seal. That has no fully cured the problem.
--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
JTM formulated the question :

Sorry, wireless keyboard obviously missed a character - it is now fully cured. I have a wonderfully dry garage and work shop, after suffering ingress from several of issues over the years.
--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 18/07/2012 22:45, Syke wrote:

The garge at my previous house had a rubber sealing strip of about those dimensions bolted to the floor by the door. I didn't have any problems with water getting in.
This is similar to what I had : (Amazon.com product link shortened)
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 18/07/2012 22:45, Syke wrote:

Just tackled the same problem. I laid about 15mm of mortar with sloped edges and topped it with this: http://tinyurl.com/6m2jrlx . It seems to be performing as well as the vendor claims.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Syke wrote:

You can't use concrete because it's got stones in it, which means you can't chamfer it off. Mortar will crack up when you drive over it, although garages are rarely used to store vehicles these days, so if it's not going to be driven over, use strong mortar and pva the cleaned concrete prior to laying it, otherwise I'd follow Roger's advice WRT using a piece of steel tubing or angle iron
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.