Can anyone recommend some where I can get a good quality rubber seal for the sides and bottom of an 'up and over' garage door. I'm assuming it will have to be riveted on as the door is metal ?
Once this is done any suggestions on a cost effective way to keep the garage above freezing / keep the damp out.
I used some of that plastic damp course material. A 'wiping strip' pop-riveted to the door at the bottom and, where needed, a V strip at the sides. (I needed something with minimal 'drag' as the garage door is motorised.)
Been in place 3 years + without problems, cost very little, and made a tremendous difference to the garage temperature. As a bonus, it keeps out leaves etc that used to blow in.
Thought of a dehumidifier? Keeps humidity down and provides some low level heating. You could put a central heating "frost stat" in to control a small heater- if you have that much of a problem.
have wooden garage doors with a metal frame and fitted the vinyl strip between two strips of hardwood that had been varnished with exterior varnish and then attached the assembly to the doors using self tap stainless steel screws. I did this on all four sides.
I wanted to use the garage as a workshop all year round and for it to be dry and economically warm in the winter. It is a single leaf of brick construction and before anything was done to it required 3 fan heaters full blast in the winter for at least an hour before it was comfortable for work.
To address this I did the following:
- Draught proofed the doors as described
- Lined the doors on the inside with 50mm Celotex insulation
- Built framing inside the walls with DPC to floor, leaving an air gap behind. Fitted 50mm Celotex in the frames and panelled over with 18mm ply.
- Lined under the felt of the apex roof with 50mm Celotex leaving an air gap behind and with vents to the soffits for this air space and that behind the wall insulation.
- Boarded the entire area at ceiling joist height to reduce heat loss to the roof area while providing a large clean and dry storage space.
- Installed heating using a separate circuit from the CH but heated by the boiler through a heat exchanger. Provided for 6kW of heat for rapid warm up but in winter conditions seldom need more than 3kW, per the calculations.
- Installed power supply, dado trunking all the way round with radial circuits for outlets for various equipment up to 32A.
I did consider insulating the floor as well by building a wooden floor on joists with insulation underneath. However, the heatloss through the floor is not high as it is, and I didn't want to lose ceiling height or create the need for a ramp. Instead, I painted the floor with a two-part epoxy floor paint system.
This wasn't cheap in terms of materials (probably about £1k for the improvements before wiring).
It's certainly cost effective in terms of making the space usable whenever I want and cheap to heat.
"Andy Hall" wrote | I did consider insulating the floor as well by building a | wooden floor on joists with insulation underneath. However, | the heatloss through the floor is not high as it is, and | I didn't want to lose ceiling height or create the need | for a ramp. | Instead, I painted the floor with a two-part epoxy floor | paint system.
Some industrial matting or duckboards in front of machinery or benches could provide a softer and less cold surface for standing on for long periods.
I have virtually no carpets left in the house - hate the things, so have been slinging them out as hard floors with rugs have been installed.
The issue is not really warmth in the workshop - I generally wear a pair of safety trainers - but standing on a solid floor. Rubber mats provide a degree of give which is more comfortable.
I've got a few industrial mats, but they tend to be quite expensive - horse mats are essentially the same, although a bit thicker and heavier, and cost a lot less - easy to keep clean from sawdust as well, although most goes into the dust extractor.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.