For the wood experts - American White vs European Oak?

For various reasons, I'm possibly having to match some architrave in American White Oak to European Oak Skirting (different suppliers, big price difference etc).

From what I can see, in this context, images on google suggest they look very similar.

Anyone able to comment if they would be a reasonable complement once oiled or waxed plus aged?

They don't have to match exactly as they are in different functions but they will be abutting - so anything too radically different might look weird.

I could get matching wood for a cheaper price than I have been paying but it would mean ordering from the north, whereas is turns out theres a sawmill/finishing outfit not far away that specialise in European.

The whole point of the excercise is to not paint any of this - I hate painting miles of skirting and it always looks crap when the paint chips off.

Wish I understood wood!

Cheers

Tim

Reply to
Tim Watts
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Yes, I know what you mean. For our kids' rooms I just got cheap pre- painted stuff at something like $40 for 100lf - I figure it'll get bumped and scraped and stained, but at that price I don't mind just replacing it every few years (it's not exactly a time-consuming job).

For our downstairs rooms (which, in typical 'farmhouse' style, have never had anything), I'd like to do something in red oak to match our tables and the stair rail that I put in and spend a bit more time on it...

Yes, me too. I can work "with it" reasonably well, but I don't "understand it". Frustrating at times - but whether there are any good online resources or books I can make use of, or whether I need to bite the bullet and go one some kind of course, I'm not sure.

cheers

Jules

Reply to
Jules Richardson

American white oak is quite pale and doesn't darken much with age. It has much less figure, especially when not quarter sawn. European Oak has more figuring, particularly so if quarter sawn, and darkens considerably with age - after a couple of hundred years it will be black (don't know what American does in the same timescale).

Used as a ephemeral trim wood, as you plan, there is little to choose between them, and normal staining/finishing should even them out. They certainly will not look weird, at least not for a few decades!

Painting Oak is a criminal offence.

R.

Reply to
TheOldFellow

Buy some offcuts, plane them, and look at the figuring.

The differences between Oak species are obvious, but not just color (colour). The main differences are how they look when cut in various ways.

Oak, like most true hardwoods, has two grain structures. Those that run up the trunk and carry the sap, and those that run across the trunk. The net effect is that there is a big difference in appearance depending on how the tree is turned into lumber (timber).

R.

Reply to
TheOldFellow

TheOldFellow wibbled on Monday 15 March 2010 20:55

Thanks - that gives me a feel :)

Agree. I find even a cheap softwood quite interesting if just oiled, even if it is one that most carpenters would call crap. I've been over exposed to melamine and fake plastic wood from the 70's, so anything vaguely natural seems to be a plus to me!

I don't mind a nice painted piece of wood but I'd rather have a battered waxed piece than a battered painted piece, which is invariable where the nice painted piece goes given a few years.

Reply to
Tim Watts

They're very similar. Both are Quercus robur as a species, although oaks are a bit all over the place for hybrids anyway. Generally American white oak is better than ours, particularly for quarter-sawn with ray-flake figure. If you're building Craftsman / Stickley style pieces, it can be worth seeking out American timber. Their maple's better too, OTOH our walnut beats theirs and their ash or beech are poor.

Watch out for American red oak (Q. rubra) Not the same thing at all!

Both will darken with age and so it's popular (particularly in the USA) to ammonia fume them (the classic Stickley look). I'm a big fan of this, and it's easy to do. Then wax over oil, or shellac over oil, as a finish.

Then obviously you need this! Understanding Wood R.Bruce Hoadley

An astoundingly good book. It's readable, and it will teach you how wood behaves. In particular, you'll get to grips with the tricky business of moisture shrinkage.

Reply to
Andy Dingley

I should have said put a coat of oil base primer on the putty, that will seal it.

Reply to
ransley

I have a distant recollection of reading something that suggested the European version was "durable" without additional protection, whereas the American version not quit so. Is that the case?

Reply to
John Rumm

Andy Dingley wibbled on Monday 15 March 2010 21:19

Interesting.

I've heard of that. Don't think I'd like to try with such large quantities/lengths ;-> Maybe a smaller piece, if I make something from the offcuts.

The colour of the door frames I've previously installed, but not treated yet seems to be mellowing quite nicely. I think I might install the skirting and architrave and leaving it a while before final oiling to see what happens.

Chap next door has recommended Treatex which is a blend of oils and waxes, so I'm considering that for the finish.

It sounds like I might be onto an acceptable solution doing the skirting in European. I'll take a sample of my white down to the yard and see how it looks against their european. The benefit of the local place is I would rather buy the skirting in small batches, room by room. If I start poncing about distance ordering, I'll either get done on delivery or I'd need to store 66m which is a tad inconvenient.

Ordered - I look forward to reading that - ta.

Many thanks

Tim

Reply to
Tim Watts

They're much closer to each other as species, than the variation between trees according to growth conditions. You'll certainly see variations, but that's why it's good to hand pick your boards. In particular, tannin levels vary and this affects colour (slightly), eventual colour (hugely) and rot resistance (actually mostly by bug attack rather than fungi).

There's also the UK (largely Welsh) Q. petrea upland stone oak (still a "white oak") which you're unlikely to see as timber unless you fell it yourself. As this is an upland timber it's slower grown, usually denser and higher in tannin.

Red oak (exclusively American in bulk) can be less durable around moisture as it has open pores, rather than plugged with tyloses as for white oak.

Reply to
Andy Dingley

It used to be the case that imported American hardwoods were considered the most reliable for indoor use. When they stated 10% moisture content, that's what you got, hence its popularity with the kitchen door producers. With a local merchant you might be taking a gamble in this respect. That said, if it planes up well, with no tears, that's a good indicator.

Reply to
stuart noble

"Understanding wood" by Hoadley..should be your next purchase..

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

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