Floorboard removing

I'm using a circular saw, set almost to break through so as not to hit any pipes cutting each end of the board, over a joist (avioding the nails) but I end up smashing the tounge or groove to smithers when pulling the board out what be the wisdom of removing tounge and groove floorboards?

Reply to
Vass
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You cant help but cut through the T&G it has to be done, either that or take the adjoining floorboards up starting from the wall. Its a bit like laying laminate, you cant take the middle piece up. :-)

-- Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

Reply to
The3rd Earl Of Derby

|I'm using a circular saw, set almost to break through so as not to hit any |pipes |cutting each end of the board, over a joist (avioding the nails) |but I end up smashing the tounge or groove to smithers when pulling the |board out |what be the wisdom of removing tounge and groove floorboards?

Put the saw through at least one tongue and groove, you *may* be able to get the rest out by moving the rest of the boards sideways. Depends on the nailing pattern and weather you can get the nails out.

Reply to
Dave Fawthrop

What angle is the blade set at? Would it help to set it at say 45 degrees so that one half of the board can slide sideways over the other half?

Reply to
stoker

It is OK to destroy the T&G that you are removing as you are putting new stuff back. Try and keep the last or first groove intact so that the new tongue will slot into it.

You could always screw a piece of 4x2 to the joist(s) to support the sides instead of cutting halway across a joist and risk hitting nails.

Chris.

Reply to
mcbrien410

You can if you need to...

Circular saw a rectangle out of the centre of the board - leaving a narrow margin of the board glued to the remainder.

Use a bolster chisel at an angle to break the endges of the board into the cut out section (i.e. away from the glue joint).

Remove the bottom of the grove on the side and edge of the new board, and glue back into place.

Reply to
John Rumm

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