Fitting new oven door seal - glue?

[Velvet]

As above, really. It's a fan oven, electric. Door seal is obviously in need of repair (the bottom bit is hanging loose, ends are clearly supposed to meet but don't, there's a bit missing) and I have a replacement from the manufacturer.

I'm pretty sure they're meant to be glued as well as the little metal bits at each corner poked into the oven 'chassis' - the glue clearly needs to be able to withstand high temps reached during cooking, too.

Anyone offer suggestions of what I should be looking for? Will have a scout round the next DIY place I visit, but is it a specific type of glue for doing this, or some generic glue/something used in some other glueing-in-high-temps application?

Cheers in advance,

Velvet

PS. Pleased with DIY attempts thus far on new house. Cat flap looks professionally done, so chuffed with that. Ditto with bath re-seal, though have spotted one tiny pinhole in the sealant which needs sorting. Have discovered drilling into plaster/brick is damn sight more difficult than into plasterboard (brick is fine, it's the plaster on top of the brick that's the bit I'm having problems with - it's crumbly and am ending up with holes several sizes bigger in said plaster than the drill bit being used, just cos of the crumbling).

[Rick]

You need a special glue, from a domestic repair suppliers, or from a google search.

Rick

[soup]

Also have you considered that to drill into brickwork you will need to use a masonry bit, and these drill bigger holes than their shanks? Have done this myself placed the shank of the bit next to the rawlplug and decided that is the right size of bit only to have the hole too big when it is drilled.

Please excuse really poor drawing/draughting and very loose description of pieces of a bit (I was in a hurry).

[Rob Morley]

Fortunately whatever you're fixing with the screws will usually cover the Polyfilla that you use to repair the plaster, and you end up with a stronger fixing.

[Pete C]

Hi,

Try asking the manufacturer what's best.

Also have a look for fire rope glue/adhesive, eg:

A local stove/fireplace supplier should be able to get hold of it.

There is also high temperature silicone, but I'm not sure how strong it is at high temps, maybe someone can comment on this.

cheers, Pete.

[Velvet]

Ah, this could explain it, though I was following the directions on the rawlplug (which were for brick) - and using the specified size of masonry bit.

I've also been told to put some welly behind it to get it through the plaster as fast as possible and into the brick, so it doesn't dislodge more plaster than needed. Not tried that one yet...

[Rob Morley]

It's mainly the drill wandering over the hard brick surface underneath that causes major disruption to the plaster - if you go through the plaster as hard as you can then you hopefully make a dent in the brick that stops the drill from wandering.

[Steve Walker]

No! Exactly the opposite, IME......

Drill through the plaster on slow, non-hammer setting and only then 'open up the throttle' when you hit brick.