Customer wants me to make one of these to a bespoke size.
- securely
Some of these use the 'floating shelf' principle, but I'm not keen on that.
You could cross-drill it and use long coach-bolts to screw into the wall (you haven't said what the wall is, by the way) and then plug the holes with matching or contrasting wood.
Or you could just put long studs into the wall and slot the shelf over them.
Or
OR..... Use spur bracketing with a bracket set into the decorative support.
Bob
Gaffer tape.
Not sure that this isn't the 'floating shelf' principle, but I've done several oak fireplace shelves without brackets by drilling three deep 16mm holes in the back edge of the shelf (centre and near each end), matching
12mm holes in the brick chimney breast, three lengths of 12mm steel bar to connect them. Where the steel bar is inside the oak, cover it with plastic hosepipe to avoid the tannin in the oak corroding the steel -- that's the reason for the larger holes in the shelf.Stephen
Route rebates into the backs of the uprights, and slap a couple of these in each:
Wot e said.
If the walls are really bad, put the screws in first and then place the brackets to match, else both brackets will be exactly over a bit of flint or that part of the wall made of pure sand.
Thomas Prufer
I did a similar job i but without any brackets using Woodfit concealed shelf supports:
with no problem at all. I did get a proper carpenter/joiner to actually put it up though.
Keith
In message , Bob Minchin writes
I made an almost identical mahogany shelf from a damaged plank from the local timber merchant (she didn't like the colour of the oak that I had in the shed). I just put two long screws through the supporting brackets at each side and then used plug cutters from the Aldi remainder bin to to make plugs to cover the holes over the screw heads.
I'm not quite sure why anyone is seeing a problem here, or a need to buy hidden fixings.
I always like it when I eventually find a use for something too good to miss that I've bought on a whim. There are some things in Aldi at the moment that I am hoping will be remaindered soon.
Why isn't everyone suggesting drilling a through-hole in the top surface of the bracket (which will be covered by the shelf), angled down a bit - so it emerges on the wall-side surface of the bracket, about an inch down from the top?
Widely spaced brackets so you can choose to be going into thick masonry, and MH's and my favourite - multimonti's - pulling the bracket tight to the wall, just at the point of maximum load.
Packers at the bottom of one bracket if necessary, to ensure the shelf sits flat across the top of both brackets. Then (wooden plugged-over later) holes through the bottom of the brackets (and into the wall) and through the top of the shelf and into the bracket.
Many ways. Popular is to use four keyhole mirror plates, rebated in on the back of the corbels.
Another way is to use rawlbolts (projecting stud) in the wall, and an L shaped hole in the top of the corbels, allowing a round nut with external slots (bannister nut) to be tightened up from above. Then when the corbels are in place, the shelf sits on dowels to locate it.
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