Just added another TV to the collection...
I want to be able to split it between two TV's , but having moved the
old TV around, the cable now doesn't reach either of the TVs.
I am looking for two possible solutions:
1. Assuming that no amplification is required (I'll have to verify
this): use a 1-to-2 junction box (or similar) to split the cable under
the house and run cables to both TV.
2. If the signal needs boosting: extend the cable to a point where I can
fit a booster/splitter.
Whilst the space under the house offers protection from direct sun light
and/or rain, it is almost the same as leaving the cable/connectors
outside (very windy/cold, etc).
I would be most grateful for advice as to the correct way to
split/extent the cable is what is essentially our outdoor conditions.
Links to exact part will also be great.
Plugs (F-type) (10pk):
Barrel jointer (10pk):
Connector fitting instructions:
Ignore the silicon grease and taping mentions for non-outdoor use.
The plugs are basically strip, fold back braid and twist on, sounds
rough but they are secure if sized correctly. Just buy some and try it,
post back if you have trouble, the connection should survive quite a tug
if made correctly. The coax (solid) core forms the connector pin.
Suck it and see as is and post back if you think you need a booster.
Generally good advice except for sealing. The best way of making the joints
weatherproof is to use self amalgamating tape. Properly applied it will last
for at least twenty years. You can get the tape from Screwfix product code
Thanks a lot for that - just the answer I was hoping for as I already
have the f-type fittings from another job...
Just out of interest - what does "power pass to all ports" mean?
Also, is there any interference issue with running the coax cable
alongside CAT5e cables? I am only talking about 2m or so.
Masthead aerial amplifiers etc require power to operate. Usually the
power supply for these is kept in the house, and the power is fed up the
co-ax to the masthead amp. Hence if you have something like this being
powered from the co-ax, anything you place in the co-ax along the way
must also pass the power through. Some splitters only do so on one
particular port - hence in those cases you need to take care to put the
outgoing lead with the PSU on it, on the right socket of the splitter.
Ones with power pass on all ports does not have this restriction.
Screwfix used to do the single power port version (Labgear WBS2F) at
silly cheap prices so I got my few examples there. Current offering
appears to be Labgear FBS402, note the directional power feed arrows on
case pic suggesting diodes as per Bill's post (Ta).
For comedy effect it appears that the current version of WBS2F has the
power port on the right whereas mine have it on the left. Nothing like
continuity of design eh?
Spent an hour under the house today and connected everything:
Cable from aerial (on roof) to splitter - around 15-20m - as before
adding the splitter.
- SF didn't have the one you suggested, so I bought this one instead -
- Connected TV that was originally connected to the aerial cable to
splitter - signal dropped from 100% to 99%.
- Connected second TV to splitter - cable around 10-15m. Signal only
9%... :-(. Amazingly all the channels seem to work OK, including the TV
guide. Only BBC channels are pixelated and unwatchable (and show 7%).
Any idea how to improve before I go down the amplification route?
PS: Used F-type plugs, wall plates, and good quality cable, so don't
think there is a problem there?
No, that sort of pratting about is a waste of time. Signal levels are
generally too low. But a one input one output mains powered amp, gain
around 12dB, fit it on the aerial feed, as close to the aerial as
possible, but right next to the splitter if that's the best you can do.
Blake Proception PROAMP 11 is ideal.
Better still, if you can get to the aerial fit a 16dB masthead amp.
Proception, Vision, Labgear, Antiference.
Very difficult to reach the aerial - 15m high on gable end on a hill side...
It is also going to be difficult to provide power near the bottom of the
Is there any point in amplifying the signal just before the cable is
connected to the far-away TV?
Not really. A marginal improvement might, at best, be obtained. It
certainly doesn't address the problem. If you can get power to the
splitter position put the mains powered amp just before the splitter.
If not, use a masthead amp with a separate mains power unit. The 12V DC
goes up the coax. The problem is that the amp still needs to be before
the splitter (this is vital), but the splitter might not pass the DC
power. Does the splitter have 'DC pass' written on it,
You could actually use a non DC splitter and bypass it for DC by the use
of two of these:
but it's rather a faff.
followed by a few two-way splitters on the non-powered legs to give
enough outputs (split the shortest feeds).
Ah, problem is that the incoming signal power is split by the number of
ways on the splitter, irrespective of the number of loads connected.
Thus a 6 way splitter will reduce signal power to 17% vs the 50% avail
on the proposed 2W splitter.
That sounds ok.
Something is wrong here, 15m of cable is not that great a loss so I
wouldn't expect it to go over the edge from 99% to duff with just that.
Check for stray hairs of braid that might be shorting the signal (no it
doesn't always result in no signal).
If you don't need all those ways off the splitter then find a 2W
splitter of the same quality (F-conns, soldered cab construction eg.
Labgear) as the signal will be 3 times stronger from that alone
If you need lots of splits then you will need a distribution amp.
If you have spare cable, make up a long fly lead to temporarily replace
your long installed section to see if it works ok. Was it really good
cable (copper foil and braid screening)? No kinks in the cable (easily
done in a back box)?
If you find you need an amp (after trying the 2W splitter alone and a
replacement cable) then those suggested by Bill will be good as this is
his expert topic.
Ask at uk.rec.digital-tv if you get no responses here or want more details
Sounds like you need a passive TV splitter - most seem to go for those
either connecting directly to the cable or using F-connectors instead of the
Belling plugs (the type that plugs into the TV). They have components
inside to stop reflections etc and are NOT the same as splicing the cables
in a simple Y (despite what many cowboys seem to think). TV cable is also
supposed to be weather proof so no issues there.
Also, if you need a boost, boost as close to the aerial as possible
otherwise you're also boosting any noise which has crept in along the cable.
A way that works to extend cables without TOO much impedance change is
to strip them back and get the outer sheaths out of the way and lap
solder the smallest amount of the inners you can get away with together
and, if you are careful, push the insulation over that joint so the
dielectric is more or less continuous, then tape that up with a bit of
PVC tape and connect the outers in some way. Brass shim or tinplate cut
from a mustard tin wrapped round the cable (or tube slid over it) will
preserve the outer continuity and geometry. Solder the braids to that.
Then wrap the lot in self amalgamating tape.
Its probably no worse than a custom connector, electrically, and is more
proof against environmentally induced deterioration.
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