So.. lifted the carpet in the back bedroom the other day to reveal this:
Arse.
Now for the tricky bit... The 'floorboards' go under the wall. So how to replace that bit? I'd really rather not destroy the bathroom on the other side of the wall (it's all tiled, including the side of the bath).
Half tempted to rip the lot up and replace with proper floorboards.
Philip
" snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com" wrote in news:516a8069-a4b1-422a- snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:
Put laminate flooring down?
Chipboard is falling apart on the underside due to water damage so not really strong enough and needs to be replaced.
Also I hate laminate flooring.
Philip
Remove gripper & skirting.
Cut chipboard flush with the (presumably stud) wall.
Cut back chipboard to give a decent section to span (piddly bits are usually horribly flimsy.)
Measure and cut new floor sections[1].
Now this is the clever bit. Get a piece of decent timber, something like
1" x 0.75" (maybe 1x1") and screw the chipboard to it so that, when the floor's down, the batten will sit flush against the wall where the skirting was. Screw from the underside of the chip, preferably with some penny washers to spread the load, into the short face of the batten.Lay floor, then screw through the long face of the batten into the floor plate of the studwork (or, if block, make the long face 2 or 3" and screw in higher up.)
Shove a piece of (cut down) skirting above it, et voila.
[1] How old is the place? Helped a friend with endless crappy sections and, in the end, we did the whole lot as the old stuff was imperial and didn't butt up nicely to the new metric.
Cunning.
I believe it is 1979.
Philip
Good chance it's metric but you can never tell! Get a vernier caliper on a piece, although being a carpeted room it won't be as irritating and obvious as under lino which this was.
Remove skirting
Cut back chipboard
Attach joist hangers to floor plate and studs of wall keeping metalwork below level of the top of the skirting.
Drop in noggins of 4"x2" from joist hangers to existing joist.
Assuming studs are at 400mm centres so will your noggins this allows you to use 1200mm lengths of chipboard supported on at least 4 noggins each. This should limit deflection when walked on.
Replace skirting covering up joist hangers
Use
This doesn't look like a flooring grade chip, which is much denser. It should also be the green waterproof stuff if it's vulnerable to water. All chip shouldn't be lumped together because the correct grades perform very well IME
On Tuesday 05 November 2013 14:50 snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote in uk.d-i-y:
Looks like my upstairs.
Only solutiuon: cut it off flush.
Won't that make the floor edge rather springy??
Perfect excuse to get a multi-tool, if you don't have one yet.
+1. One of those oscillating/vibrating/semirotary saws. If one's really not affordable you'd need to use a floorboard saw, which has teeth on an outside curve IYSWIM.
NT
On Tuesday 05 November 2013 21:09 Fredxx wrote in uk.d-i-y:
Naturally you'd need to add noggins/battens as appropriate...
Cut it off flush with the wall (Mutimaster type tool, or a biscuit jointer can get close up to the edge).
Screw some additional support timbers to the sides of the joists to take the free ends of the new board (and cut off edge of the old).
Drop in new flooring.
If you wanted, you could even fix what is there simply by offering up a
2x2 or similar to the underside of the broken bits and screwing down through the floor into - if it extends a couple of feet out either side beyond the broken bit it will carry the load well enough....
They stopped colouring it green some years ago.
Colin Bignell
Ah. Shows how long it is since I needed any.
What exactly do you need to do? The picture shows a slightly knobbled junction of several bits of boarding, so small it all looks like floor tiles. But the worst bit looks like a dam aged corner (which is over a bearer.) So all you (don't really) have to do is mix a bit of sawdust, plaster and some PVA and fill it.
But you don't explain why you lifted it. It isn't a structural problem and the aesthetics will be covered by the acceptable use of carpet. Just don't park any chair legs over the offending spot.
I assume you lifted the carpet to replace something. If it is just carpet, do so and forget about it. You will have lots more stuff to worry about if you care to inspect the rest of the house that thoroughly. The best thing t o do is not to inspect the house that thoroughly, unless you are insomniac anyway (so won't mind staying up late just to worry about whatever.)
g, so small it all looks like floor tiles. But the worst bit looks like a d amaged corner (which is over a bearer.) So all you (don't really) have to d o is mix a bit of sawdust, plaster and some PVA and fill it.
d the aesthetics will be covered by the acceptable use of carpet. Just don' t park any chair legs over the offending spot.
, do so and forget about it. You will have lots more stuff to worry about i f you care to inspect the rest of the house that thoroughly. The best thing to do is not to inspect the house that thoroughly, unless you are insomnia c anyway (so won't mind staying up late just to worry about whatever.)
I lifted the carpet because the floor was creaking unacceptably and because the green board shows through the carpet (it is 18mm whereas the rest is 2
2mm and not really supported at one end, unless you call a few screws into the joist it ends alongside, but not over supported)The hole is a good 8 inches by 4 inches and the damage underneath far more extensive. All the boards along that wall have expanded due to water damage .
Looks like it must have been done by whoever replaced the boiler at some po int before we got the house, for a pipe run.
You do sound like the kind of bodger that gives DIY'ers a bad name. Chipboa rd floorboards are not exactly expensive, no no real excuse not to do the j ob properly.
Philip
I bought some green 3 weeks ago!
Phew!
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