OK firstly, you were perhaps a bit unlucky in that the first response you got was from the third earl chappy - alas tact and sympathy do not seem to enter his vocabularly. That kind of set the tone.
The confusion with regard to terms like "chocblock" did not help much either!
This group is actually very good on things electrical - hang around for a bit and you will see what I mean. Don't let a premature flamefest put you off! ;-)
As the others said, you need to trace the fault through with a multimeter:
First check would be to disconnect the ring at the CU, and check the ring continuity, phase to phase, neutral to neutral, and earth (or CPC to use the jargon) to earth. If you have a sensitive low ohms range on your meter you should also be able to see the difference in resistance between the thicker phase conductors and the earth. For normal 2.5mm^2 cable you would expect about 15 mili ohms per meter of phase or neutral conductor, and 24 ish mOhm/m for the earth wire. You can also test for polarity and shorts etc at the same time. The low ohms tests also let you spot any potential faults caused by poor connections (i.e. higher than expected resistance) somewhere in the ring.
If that all looks good, then the next suspect would be the MCB itself. I have met MCBs that appear to be on, but are only pretending! So with the main power switch off, check for continuity between the top and bottom contacts of the MCB (turn off all the other MCBs to eliminate any confusion caused by parallel circuit wiring faults!). Check that the MCB opens and closes correctly - try it several times since a dodgy MCB may fail to close only some of the time.
For a fuller description of the testing procedure one ought to carry out on a circuit like this, see the IEE On Site guide (well worth every DIYer having a copy of this book as a minimum):
An insulated connector block is perfectly acceptable providing it is fully enclosed in some other insulating box, the terminals used are of suitable current carrying capacity, and it remains accessable for inspection.
Had you have paused to ask a few questions you would have found out that the technique used was (while not ideal) still acceptable and in line with BS7671.
Since we have not had a report back on the results of any further tests, we don't actually know where the fault is at present, so it seems a bit rash to claim "he wouldn't have been in this mess". Should it turn out to be a result of a faulty MCB then this would not be true.
It's all sorted now chaps. It was - cue drum roll - a faulty MCB. Got a sparky to come round and check it all over. I asked him to check my connections and asked him if it was OK to do things like that. The answer was as long as everything is secure it was fine. A huge thanks to all who have given me "genuine" help and advice.
Next question - is it ok to cut Speedfit pipe with a hacksaw :)
In workplaces (which aren't usually covered by Part P) staff are not now allowed to change lightbulbs unless a risk assessment has been carried out and the staff have been trained in Working at Heights, Using Ladders, Basic Electrical Safety, and Putting The Old Ones In The Correct Bin.
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