What keeps the brush section to the floor, on changing verticality of handle? Is it back torque through the belt/clutch system or some spring action. Got through the topology puzzles to get it all back together after sorting out belt/clutch problem , now working vacuum cleaner except the brush head wants to stay in whatever manually set position. Brush head swivels its full extent but will not self align with the floor, regardless of handle angle. I suspect something is misaligned/binding and brush section should swivel easier and then belts back-torque gives the floor-hugging action.
I've just rescued one of these from the rubbish, it all seems to function but the top filters needed washing. I must say I'm impressed with the improvements over the early grey one. The passageways are accessible and the brush drive is disengaged when upright for ordinary vacuuming.
This one had had the brush housing assembled wrongly with the part that locks the brush head on the RHS by the removable manifold being the wrong side of the casing. Could this be the problem?
This one was also rescued from being dumped and a few days of heavy rain on it. Some silicone grease on the 3 pairs of surfaces that rotate over one another and then the reactive torque of the belt train is enough to keep the brush down. Next time I take one of these apart I will grease those surfaces before reassembly. Perhaps marginally different alignment brought different surfaces to rub.
I've just realised I've delved into most areas of this Dyson, motor, clutch,bands , mains switch, hose anchor and failed pipe lock in the wand handle. But I don't know what the mechanism is that auto cuts the brush action, on returning the handle to the vertical position.
There's a clutch, operated by the handle position. I once got too much brick dust in it and it started slipping. A blast with a compressed air can fixed it and I didn't have to take it apart in the end, so I haven't seen exactly what the mechanism is.
Andrew Gabriel wrote in message news:ijtgiq$j11$ snipped-for-privacy@news.eternal-september.org...
My write-up of a Dyson repair and exploration
Dyson DC04 , 2007 on the mains plug Yellow and mainly grey/silver version Mark with coloured felt-pen mating lines before removing sections, as 3D compound curve structures and an exercise in topology
6 torx underneath remove cyclone Lift and turn grey felt pad holder anulus to remove revealing 4 screws remove elbow inspection piece undo both yellow plastic large circlips with long nose pliers Relieve spring loaded black lever next to motor casing and turn brush section. Pull belt and pull the brush bar through to remove To remmove yellow clutch cover. On internal black adjascent to the yellow user-turned cap protruding index line there is a pair of Vs in the black and also 180 degrees around on other side, feel more than see. thin rod in a V to release yellow section of lock catch, angled so pressure to internal yellow part is outwards (or perhaps black section inwards) , same on diametric catch. This yellow cap then comes off with some pulling and then the clutch section will come out on undoing the screws. Similar for mains switch, To remove yellow know insert 1.5mm rod ( with 2mm long wedged ground end) in the V notch near handle , mark 20mm mark on this rod so know when hitting mouldiong recess not the ledge of the catch. Turn the rod 180 degrees and pull the knob with large circlip pliers. Innards of clutch. Cussion ratchet end of axle before removing the circlip as it is spring loaded , and not loose the 3 ball "percussion" slip clutch ( the part that makes the nasty noise if brush is jammed) Reassembly - lay end cap upwards holding both dog-clutch shaped rings uppermost. Hold axle in housing and place over the end housing, turn until locked, jiggling inside with a jewellers screwdriver for alignment, replace the 2 screws. Refit the circlip and clutch mechanism should work now on turning the ever( still leaver yellow cap cover off), check before progressing. Belts (old , working but maybe stretched) 12x2mm x 255mm outside circumference and 7x2 x 262mm, 17 percent extension , doubled up) on 3kg load . Cleaned and turned inside out. Glazing etc scraped off all baluster pulleys and motor shaft one cleaned and axially fine abraided. Reassembly of clutch into brush section. Black lip that goes into the belt channel in the yellow, enter into the slot but angled, force the pair of accompanying shrouds either side of the yellow. Belt slot slides and clicks into place. Check the drive clutch works. Add the yellow cap only after motor reassembly and powered up Motor spins clockwise , viewing belt drive end, turns easily that way and a bit of motor brush noise the wrong way. With 34V on a variac , after a few seconds getting up to speed then .91A and
103 revs per second. At the belt end 4 retainers hold the grey ring, 2 screwdrivers one large, one small , release those catches, mark beforehand. Pull out rubber cover again marked. Motor just located by 2 plastic pillars in the othe rrubber disc at the other end of th eaxle, so mechanically decoupled from passing vibration to chassis .22uF 275V cap and thermal fuse marked
17AM026A5 -11 Undo screw to remove C and fuse , mark orientation
22 commutator lands brushes 10.7x6.9x>=26.5mm , bend back tang near solder and move the plate across to remove brushes, then measuring
2.6R across diametric commutator lands , .6R adjascent and 1.5R and 1.6R stators Motor and Fan 1.35 Kg motor marked for 240V YDX YV 511 1F1Z Reassembly of motor, guide belt just over the end of the axle so the whole brush casing is loosely aligned with and around the motor in the central recess. Offer up both into the main body and cajole sections into place. Push side rings over the pivots and reclip yellow circlips. Check the clutch and motor works by turning the brush and should hear the motor spinning plus reistance to turning with clutch in. Replace hose to brush section Replacing the pivoting sliding diverter duct that carries the user accessible airway inspection elbow. Replace the circlip and then the profiled rubber ring then just vaguely locates on the boss, held in place by the inspection elbow, with thin flap part in viewed position. If the main swivel action jams that is brush housing relative to main boidy , so the handle will not return to the vertical position. Probably the mechanism that disengages the clutch in that position. Remove the exhaust filter, 2 screws in that recess, nearest handle and one at the diverter and slacken the remaining. Then the diverter duct/swivel cowling will drop into place with some joggling, replace and tighten screws. Diverter duct selects air inlet from brush or wand. To save digging out a 6 amp variac, that had got buried over the years. Without cyclone section in place but otherwise reassembled vacuum cleaner Using for a couple of seconds with a 26R / 200W resistor in series with 2 x
24V/240W halogen lamps all in series with the Dyson, off 240V mains. 110V drops to about 90 V over the R. Replacing 26R with 2.8R/200W plus the 2 lamps, a bit of thermal run away on the lamps going from orange to just white and stopped , V over 2.8R about 12V Replaced with both lamps in parallel and runs stable with 12.7V over the
2.8R so had confidence to run sttraight off the mains with no droppers. White sticker on the brush and that spins at 33 Hz/ 33 RPS with a strobe light. If brush head fails to "stick" to floor with moving handle angle in use. Silicone grease on the sections of plastic that glide over one another at the sides and the slot towards the middle. Then the reactive back torque from the motor bands/clutch will take the brush head downwards. Next time grease these reltive rotating side surfaces before reassembly. Broken hose near wand handle. To remove the black core that anchors the hose. Some old conventional callipers with a plastic kids mosaic Hama/Perler/Pearler bead pushed on each tip, located over each of the small black locating lugs, tightened using the callipers knurled nut. Then engineers cramp to squash much tighter to push the plastic lugs inward enough to then push with a bar inside the lock end. When dislodged then push in the vacuum release button and core will pull out. Remove the broken end , cut the wire, until good wire and inside and outside layers of plastic hose. Turn one turn onto the channel in the core. Lock for the Al tube not working . With the hose anchor removed, joggle out the 2 springs and then the yellow sliding lock ring will fall away inside, just gummed up with dirt, so clean up sliding and mating surfaces.
's a clutch pack that has a lever sticking out of the side. The lever is pushed round by the side of the body which disengages the clutch when upright. When you tilt the handle back it releases the lever and engages the clutch.
Thus spake andrew ( snipped-for-privacy@sylva.icuklive.co.uk) unto the assembled multitudes:
I recently bought a DC25 and gave my old-but-still-fully-working DC01 to the girlfriend, and she's positively gushing in her enthusiasm for it. It almost feels as if I have a rival for her affections. :-) I suspect it's because she has three cats, and her earlier cleaners just didn't cut it, but the DC01 does a great job with the old cat hairs.
Thanks for a detailed write-up. I need to remove the switch on mine. This 1.5mm rod that you describe, did you make that yourself with a bench grinder?
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.