Dripping cistern inlet ball valve

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Hi
The ball valve in my toilet cistern is dripping from the blue nut nearest the plastic inlet - it's pretty much the same valve shown in this article:
<http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/ball_valves/fitting_replacing.htm
Can anyone tell me whether the valve can be taken apart and cleaned/resealed with some sort of waterproof sealant, or whether I should/can replace any washers in it?
(I also found that whoever put it in decided against drilling through the wall for the overflow, and felt the floor was a better place for excess water!)
Alternatively, should I just replace it? I'd rather not do this unless I have to - the isolation valve doesn't *quite* stop all of the water so it's a case for the freezer spray I think.
Incidentally, there are a few valves in the house which seem stuck or not very effective. The stopcock is under the kitchen floor and is difficult to get to, to say the least. Are there "remote control" valves available, or should I just get a stopcock key and shut the whole lot off from the pavement?
Thanks in advance
Jason
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Yes, you can take it apart, and yes, there is probably a worn washer in there you can replace from a cheap kit from a shed. I assume you've checked that you can't stop it by lifting the ball, in which case it may only need an adjustment to its height.
CAUTION: Unscrew slowly as there are bits that can fall out, and take careful notes (or photos) of exactly how it's assembled, as some have reversible parts for tank/mains water pressure.

I would certainly try repairing the valve first. Not only is it quicker and cheaper, but the last time I had to replace the whole column as described on the page you reference, it took me ages to stop the water connection from leaking.
Chris
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Whoever previously owned my son's house obviously used the same plumber. The plastic float arm snapped off at the weekend and filled the front room with water. Thought it best to check the other first floor bathroom and, lo and behold, no overflow there either. Getting paranoid now, and realise there isn't even one for the storage tank in the loft.

I'd shut off from the street and fit a new stopcock in a more convenient spot. Also, fit inline valves to everything you might ever need to isolate in a hurry....like cisterns.
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On Thu, 24 Apr 2008 08:59:09 UTC, Stuart Noble

Our cold water header tank had its overflow dumping into the CH header tank (which had its own overflow to the ouside). Slow drip from the main ball valve diluted the inhibitor nicely!
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wrote:

But is that one any different to the pesky screwdriver slot leakers? (apart from having a handle)
Geo
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With this sort of valve - especially in a hard water area - it's often less hassle to simply replace the whole thing.
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*I like cats, too. Let's exchange recipes.

Dave Plowman snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk London SW
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Hi
Just to say thanks to everyone who responded to my original question - a "Universal Ball Valve Repair Kit" from my local DIY store, and liberal amounts of PTFE tape and sealant seem to have done the job,
Thanks!
Jason
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