Can anyone recommend a decnet drill, that is able to cope with green oak, and auger drilling to 32mm x 450mm long. All the drills I own are fantastic for concrete and we have never been beaten yet, but when drilling oak the safety clutches kick in and then drill no more.
TIA
Steve
Have you tried emailing HP? I believe they own that technology these days.
I believe that a low rev., high torque machine is needed here.
Have a look at Metabo B7532 as an example. Most of the manufacturers seem to have something like this.
This might actually be an application where a hand brace and auger may be a more economic choice - this is what Granddad would have used. A power drill with sufficient torque is going to be big and beefy, and expensive.
R.
Expense is not really an issue, a hand brace would take too long as the last job we did we had too drill well over a hundred 25mm holes.
So give people a ball park firgure to work to? I'm thinking 110v with drop down box would be more suited ie industrial.
As I said, price is not really an issue for the right piece of kit, we have aldready had four 24V cordless unit replaced or repaired by Hilti that should have done the job, but wern't up to it. I am looking for something reliable and with longevity.
I have been looking at the Makita range, but will probably wait for a tool fair to have a look and try one. Might take a piece of oak with me so we can try before buying :-)
He's turned the light on here, I think?
So you want a cordless type?
The best thing is a chain moticer. But the things cut rectangles. You need the auger to clear the bore so a slow speed might be a better option than a powerful drill. Also the fiber in the timber is very ungiving so the augers need to be absolutely, perfectly sharp.
What sort of drills are you thinking of? If you are making gates or fencing, a square cutting implement would be best suited anyway. A chain needs to be firmly clamped and that is the most onerous side to the use of a portable morticer.
If you can get hold of a second hand morticing machine of course then you will find the job a doddle. But they usually require 3 phase lekkie. Which makes them fairly cheap to buy but hideously expensive to set up -unless you fancy changing the motor.
I have no idea how a router would behave. Another thing I would try is a pilot hole. You may have tried that but failed to mention it. I would like to know what you have tried.
I'm assuming you're timber framing and need to drill very deep peg holes on site. When I was taught, we used something like this:
A chat with the Axminster helpline about the best possible auger bit/drill combination might be useful:
Sorry,incorrect URL's.
BTW - can you tell us what you're producing in green oak? Whereabouts are you based?
Not really - just suitably geared if all it has to do is match the torque and RPM of a hand brace.
a pilot hole with an auger? I hope thats not what you meant :)
NT
I've recently bought a Wickes 750W High Torque Rotary Drill for £99.99 which is aweome.
Spec as follows;
3 fold gear reduction for high torque and drilling Superb for driving large screws, bolts, drill and auger bits Forward and reverse actions Top speed pre-selection Full wave electronics maintain constant speed even under varying loads No load speed: 530rpm Max torque: 85Nm Drilling capacity Wood 70mm, Steel 16mmThe message from Richard Downing contains these words:
You can get wood augers for SDS drills. Even the cheapy SDS drills are pretty well unstopable - though you might wish they weren't! A long torque-bar on the side would help - not hard to lash one up - or on.
Good point about the torque bar. My Wickes jobby has a bar abot 16" long and you really do need it!
The message from "The Medway Handyman" contains these words:
If you drive past the Tower of London, the railings round the moat were put up by me. They'd been taken out for maintenance to the stonework, and we had to put them back. Bastard of a job because instead of jacking the stanchions out of the lead filling in the sockets they'd been cut off with a gas-axe leaving bits of steel bar set flush with the lead which was flush with the stone. Getting them out wasn't pleasant.
Anyway, in one or two places whole coping stones had been replaced and we had to bore new holes right by the edge of the drop into the moat. The firm had a 1950s drill about the size of a pneumatic road drill - with a torque handle a good 6' long. My job was to hold the handle. I arranged things so that a snatch would pull me away from the moat - until we got to the end of the row and there wasn't anywhere else to stand. Yes, it snatched, and picked me up and dangled me over the moat. The tourists seemed to think it was funny - until I said "Goodbye" and let go.
What they couldn't see was that a truck had tipped loads of sand into the moat leaving a very steep slope starting only a few feet below the lip onto which I could fall and slide gracefully all the way down. It was just a long walk back and a tricky moment explaining to security why I was inside trying to get out.
In article , Guy King writes
LOL!......
No very many have it seems!...
Quite straightforeward. You either start the hole with the largest drill or use a blank piece to fit over the work once you have drilled out the complete order with a 1/4 inch bit.
I don't know if it will work with regard to the original problem but the problem of the auger wabbling is easily solved by the above method. The blank won't last all that long but it would be quicker than drilling the order through thrice.
Not sure I'm following you, any piece fitted over a hole wont work with auger and deep hole. It would need to be a dowel inserted into the hole, this way one could replace some of the drilled hardwood with soft and thus ease the situation, at the cost of extra faffabout.
NT
Surely this defeats the action of the screw tip on the auger?
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.