Hey all,
I am going to be replacing the antiquated spotlights in my kitchen with some fancy new low voltage downlighters, i think the room will need at least 5 of these, possibly six. My question is with how to wire these up, I have seen more than one solution - using one transformer to power them all or using individual transformers. What would you good people recommend?? If using individual transformers would you connect these all to the leccy feed using a single junction box?
TIA
Gerry
It depends a bit on the bulb and transformer rating. If using electronic transformers, these have to be a reasonable match.
In the room which my wife uses as an office there are 6 x 35 watt downlighters - for which I used 2 x 150 watt transformers, each running 3 lights. So mains goes into a junction box (1 in and 2 out), with an output for each transformer. The 12v output from each transformer goes into another junction box (1 in and 3 out) with individual cables to each lamp.
On the 12v side, you need much fatter cable than you would use for the same current at mains voltages because you can't afford any appreciable voltage drop.
I would recommend not using downlighters for space lighting. They are obscenely inefficient in this role and we all have a duty to reduce carbon dioxide emissions.
Christian.
Ok, what would you recommend you use then Christian? The room has a high ceiling and is 3.5m long by about 1.75m wide (approx). The other idea that was discarded was to use two pendant lights, Ikea do some nice ones that look like brushed aluminium and are shaped like bells. The problem with these IMO is that they will cast a lot of shadows upwards which with a high ceiling may not look too great... thoughts?
Excellent information, thanks!
I would suggest using surface mounted glass shaded fittings. These can often be loaded with a couple of 11W CFL spiral or GLS bulbs. At 44W, such a system will provide much greater general illumination than the proposed 250W halogen setup, which will actually not come close to providing enough light.
Something with a design somewhat like these:
Additional task lighting should be provided with concealed undercupboard link tube fluorescents.
Strip lamps.
Thanks for the info. I might look a stylish version of this type of light as quite frankly the one you have linked too is butt ugly :o)
Practical but not very stylish - swmbo would not appreciate them!
Yes, they're not exactly the nicest looking examples. I got mine from John Lewis for not much more money.
Christian.
She won't have to look at them if you put them on top of the wall units for reflected general light bounced off the ceiling. If the ceiling's really high, use uplighters with compact fluorescent fittings. Use slimline fluoros under the wall units to light the worktops.
Watch the colour temp of the fluoros or the meat might look rancid.
You might then need some direct light coming down from the ceiling at an angle to illuminate inside the units, and something over the dining table if present. Halogens can work well there as they will help the glassware sparkle.
Switch everything separately for flexibility.
Run the whole lot off a 13A plug to comply with Part Pee (No, don't really do that!!)
Owain
You might regret it. The run cost is remarkably high, and the temp will rise a fair bit in summer in the room.
If you're determined to use halogen downlighting, use the lowest wattage you can, and make up the rest of the light requirement with more practical lighting.
NT
I can see a trip there at lunchtime then!
Thanks
Gerry
Iuses to consider
- do you want the equivalent of wearing fur in this PC world stuck in your ceiling.? Sod it, I wear fur sometimes.:-)
- are you dimming them? toroidal transformers don't dim well..but are very low interference and mine have nice slow start thermistors on them that protects the bulbs a bit,.They are big though.
- what are your space requirements - on one area where I had very little headroom, and it was over a cooker, I didn't want to stick the transformers in a hot place, so I got a 150W electronic one and buried it in a studwall. I used one very fat cable to the location, and then spurred off to three normal T&E's to power the actual lamps.
I have had problems with the kit that comes with pre-packaged fancy kits, but what came from electrical wholesalers (trade) was cheaper, and very reliable. As weer the bulnbs. Newey and Eyre bulbs have proved to last about 3 years and cost about 50p each.
Do leave space around lamps and transformer. Heat is the biggest danger to reliability..
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.