ANY ADVICE NEEDED ON ALL RELATED DAMP ISSUES PLEAES CHECK OUT OUR WEB SITE
nhs information on mould
a link on my website where we have posted roughly 20 articles on damp and mould tips advice
far from it
im a very honest contactor
its funny you should say that because ive been writing up something on that
subject about so called rising damp
that argument is for scientists to argue about
if you have damp in your home and its damp in the walls and floor this can
be very confusing half the experts say there is rising damp the other half
say it does not ????
all you care about is getting it fixed
we deal with all types of damp penetrating damp mould condensation it could
be breeching the dpc could be a burst pipe leaking gutter poor pointing ,
is that not what you want in a contractor some body honest enough and has t
he knowledge to tell the difference instead coming in saying u have rising
you will get rising damp in very old propertys of about 100 year old slate
dpc and travels up through the motor beds
bearing in mind more modern cements it does not travel though but propertys
of 100 years plus you make your mind up
Not too inclined to accept advice from someone who spams newsgroups and who
is barely literate.
Seriously, did you you skip school the day they talked about the use of
capitalisation and punctuation?
Missed capitalisations in "OK", needs a comma after "pal". Should be
"you're"' not "your". Full stop missing after "arse". Missing
capitalisation in "You" (which should be "you've" or "you have"), missing
"a" before "part", should be "here", not "hear" and "grief them" isn't even
English. Question mark should immediately follow "them", not a "<".
You might not think it matters but in the real world, people WILL judge you
by how you write. You've not got off to a good start here.
Along with many others - including the Building Research Establishment (BRE)
who produce some very interesting and practical solutions.
And they have been for years - and still not produced a definative answer
for a certain cure.
Three feet or under and going down to floor level - high probability of
rising damp caused by DPC failure or lack off and a few other things
Can be difficult no matter how expert you think you are.
Blocked cavites, dirty wall ties, defective DPC around doors and windows,
heavy condensation from kitchens, bathrooms, damp washing drying off
indoors, leaking roof at eaves level, cavity wall insulation etc, etc, etc.
is that not what you want in a contractor some body honest
And even the most honest and conscientious get things wrong - and the con
artist makes a lot of money.
Along with the hygroscopic effect showing on black mortar render at high
level, water penetration through the stone - and about a dozen different
other reasons other than rising damp.
Not entirely true - compo, bricks and stone all absorb water, hence the
reason for cavities.
All good fun the rising damp lark and its so-called cures - and in buildings
of "100 years" or so, very often the cure is a simple shovel and and a bit
of elbow grease to shift the earth and detritus that has built up against
the walls over the years - rather than an "expert" with their chemical and
BTW, how well versed are you on the more insidious enemy called Merulius
Lacrymans and its eradication?
And I must admit to feeling a little mischievous in replying to this post in
the vein that I have, as having dealt with the effects of damp and rot in
buildings and it's problematical identification of its sources and types for
many years before retirement.
During that time, I found that a very good source of information about it
emanated from the BRE Digests that I used to have sent to me - and that
contractors who professed to be 'experts' in that field very often had less
of an idea about the stuff than the clients who were paying for its
Who's on a little 'high' by having to forsake my usual nightly anethsetic
(a couple of large Jack Daniel's Sourmash) for some rather strong
prescription pain killing medication that's bloody keeping me wide awake
tonight for some odd reason. So please accept my apologies for any offence I
may have caused.
On Saturday, February 21, 2015 at 1:34:07 AM UTC, Cash wrote:
The primary Victorian reason is normally reported as being to stop penetrating damp in high wind wet coastal locations. Though its use in other areas at the time indicates another reason too.
Lots of cavityless properties do fine in damp terms today, and the ones that don't seldom suffer rising damp, so I think the modern reason for the cavity is something else, namely insulation.
Yup, and unblocking vents and fixing rainwater goods etc.
On Friday, February 20, 2015 at 11:00:39 PM UTC, steven robinson wrote:
Maybe. Given the odds though I think few would rush to accept that. Damp tr
eatment is not normally an honest game.
at subject about so called rising damp
You're in luck, I'm a scientist. People come to uk.d-i-y looking for people
that can solve damp problems. If you're genuinely capable we should stop g
iving you a hard time, even after the spam. But prove it.
n be very confusing half the experts say there is rising damp the other hal
f say it does not ????
ld be breeching the dpc could be a burst pipe leaking gutter poor pointing
, is that not what you want in a contractor some body honest enough and has
the knowledge to tell the difference instead coming in saying u have risin
sure, but tells us little
e dpc and travels up through the motor beds
ys of 100 years plus you make your mind up
IIRC BRE said it only occurs with some sandy lime mixes, so I accept what y
ou say on that point.
On Fri, 20 Feb 2015 15:00:38 -0800 (PST), steven robinson
Quite possibly, but that does not make you competent. Many of the
sellers of quack "natural" or homeopathic medicines honestly believe
in what the sell. They lack the intelligence or will to research the
subject properly and find out they are selling snake oil.
That should be interesting.
That argument has taken place, it wasn't a very long one.
All the experts will tell you there isn't in nearly all cases. Nearly
all the damp proofers will tell you there is in nearly all cases.
The expert will often point to condensation being the problem, the
damp traders rarely.
The test is fairly easy. If the "surveyor" uses only a wood moisture
electronic meter they will diagnose rising damp. If the survey was
free it will show rising damp. If the test is being done for a house
buyer it will show rising damp.
There is no rising damp in the vast majority of cases.
Which requires the person evaluating the problem to have the
knowledge, training and intelligence to diagnose the problem correctly
and recommend the right solution - which is never a chemical DPC.
People who have entered the trade via the "monkey see, monkey do"
route of "on the job training" rarely manage to learn enough about the
subject to diagnose the problem or prescribe an effective solution.
Most chemical damp proofing works because the vegetation and soil
around the house is moved to give access to drill lots of useless
holes. Some years ago a local damp proofing company had severe cash
problems (shortage of) so they adopted the innovative solution of
using water as their "chemical". After a few months they realised no
one was actually complaining so they continued with no complaints for
several years until an aggrieved ex-employee complained about them to
not at all mate I do plastering rendering woodworm treatments timber treatm
ents dry rot wet rot
not just damp proofing as I was saying we deal with a lot condensation and
mould also a lot of penetrating damp if you cant tell the difference you wo
nt be in business long and you should
call it what you want ignore the rising bit . if you got damp in your wall
s you need it fixed if you ignore it it will get worse could spread create
an environment for dry rot to start if you get that your floors / joists ca
n be very expensive to fix what could been a small job can turn into thous
be carefull of these people saying we are scam artists cowboys any trade ha
s its fair share just like car mechanics , there advice is very very dodgy
, if u got damp it needs treated if you do it wrong it could cost a lot
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