I am about to connect 4 inch waste from a new attic conversion to an external cast iron one. Currently it rises to above roof level. Some questions:-
As my angle grinder wont cut thro 4 inches should I cut twice ie make a sort of inspection hole and hacksaw the back or is there an easier way. (for direct connection at attic floor level) Should I replace all to ground level or to existing 1st floor connections. Will new plastic fit inside old cast iron joints.
Many thanks
Peter
There's a clamp adaptor for this - from your local BM.
Peter coughed up some electrons that declared:
Could you get one of these in?
A hacksaw will not cut cast iron without wearing out both yourself and the blade quickly. Angle grinder with cutter blade around the outside. There will be a 3 inch or so section that you cannot reach toward the wall, once you cannot cut any mpre, just whack it with a hammer, it'll snap reasonably claenly between the 2 ends of the cuts. If mine, I'd replace all above the cut with plastic. Numerous adaptors can be bought to mate them up. Alan.
========================================= B&Q sell a deep hacksaw frame (cutting depth up to about 6") which will accept standard 12" blades.It's not very good quality compared with many normal sized frames but quite suitable for this occasional job. Screwfix and many other places sell blades suitable for cast iron. Using the correct blade cutting cast iron is really quite easy provided that you take your time, and it's much cleaner than an angle grinder which will emit a stream of hot dust.
If you consider using one of the ratchet type cutters (not really true ratchet) be aware that they're quite heavy and can be difficult to use if you haven't got a clear section of pipe to cut. A casting seam can cause some difficulty.
Cic.
The way I've done it in the past is to cut through as far as possible in two places about a foot apart, then cut down the line of the pipe to join up the ends of the cuts, so you take out a sort of curved rectangular section. Then you can get the angle grinder in to complete the cuts through to the back of the pipe.
Do wear a mask: something about cutting cast iron (or maybe what's coating the inside of the pipe!) is really nasty if you get it in your nostrils.
And do make sure the cast iron section above the cut is very adequately supported! Really you should remove the iron pipe above the cut (carefully! - it's extremely heavy) and continue in plastic to the top of the stack.
If you're lucky you may find a plastic push-fit joint will seal onto the CI, but generally I'd be prepared to get one of those thick rubber sleeves with jubilee clips to bridge metal to plastic.
If you can separate it at a joint, then it is easy enough to put plastic into an old cast iron collar.
Does one need to get PP or involve BC for replacement of a soil pipe?
Ring it from the outside, but without breaking all the way through, then tap it with a cold chisel at which point the (brittle) cast iron cracks neatly. This avoids running a high-speed grinder disk (or "fan" as they're known) through the Inner Contents Layer...
Cast iron grinds, saws, cracks neatly. Even belting it with a sledge can be quite a neat way to dismantle it (with practice) and it doesn't split past the joints. If you are using a hammer, then slipping a wooden wedge under the pipe to be smashed stops loading the joint into the next one. You don't even need to make the grinder grooves connect all the way, if you just think about where the stress risers are pointing and where it wants to crack when thumped.
PP only if its listed I would expect. New connections to soil pipes possibly ought to be notified - not sure about replacement.
Pretty sure the BCO wouldn't be interested if it's like for like.
On 1 Jun 2009 23:08:51 GMT, YAPH had this to say:
Only if it's real like-for-like and not such as PVC for cast iron :-) (especially for a listed or otherwise historic ("interesting") building).
I was talking the other day to our LA's conservation officer. There are several buildings in the city centre area which aren't listed, nor do they justify listing individually, but his aim is to have the areas around them designated as conservation areas so that some control can be exercised over development/alteration of individual buildings. Although I have a healthy disrespect in general for 'civic centre' type people, I think he has some good ideas. I hope he has some influence with councillor/cabinet types and the DoE or whatever it's called this week.
Still wouldn't be the BCO though, would it? It'd be the CO?
:-)
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