Crack problem

[Cursitor Doom]

Yes, four x 135 degree couplings and enough plastic drainpipe to bridge the gap. It'll be a lot less stressful than trying to meet some timetable.

[Steve Walker]

I had a crack down one wall. Although I knew it was no problem (it wasn't moving and was obviously settlement shortly after the extension was built rather than subsidence), I was moving my mortgage and the valuer wasn't happy with it. I had to pay for a structural engineer to look at it, who agreed with me, asked if it had moved while I had lived there and said that my knowledge of it over time was of more use than his inspection. Anyway, he recommended (more to keep them happy than anything) that whenever the room affected was being decorated next, just to stick some thin rebar in the mortar lines, across the crack and epoxy mortar it in.

SteveW

[Dave Plowman (News)]

If you maintain cast iron, it has a very long life indeed. PVC, especially gutters, are very likely to need replacing far more often as they go brittle. So a leak at a joint usually means replacing the lot. Unlike cast iron which can be dismantled and fixed.

[tabbypurr]

yes, a lot more chance of damaging the bricks than a grinder but looks like the only option.

I think you might be right. What the pic doesn't show is that the crack stops above & below that section, and I hadn't noticed that it's right in line with the pipe fixings. Thanks.

NT

[T i m]

Noted, thanks.

Cheers, T i m

[Andy Burns]

While you've got the mortar raked out, insert some flat (stainless?/galvanised?) steel bar above/below the cracked section?

[John Rumm]

Helibars glued in with resin, then pointed over: