So far I have a 6 mm cable from the fuse box to the kitchen,
terminating in a cooker 'socket' (correct term? It has a neon light,
dpdt switch and the incoming and output terminals are inside it. It is
not fused and there is no hole to run the cooker cable out)
I imagine I need to continue the supply to another 15a fused outlet
with a hole for the cooker flex with a gripper fitted in a convenient
location at the back of the cooker?
Or what should I do?
| So far I have a 6 mm cable from the fuse box to the kitchen,
| terminating in a cooker 'socket' (correct term? It has a neon light,
| dpdt switch and the incoming and output terminals are inside it. It is
| not fused and there is no hole to run the cooker cable out)
| I imagine I need to continue the supply to another 15a fused outlet
| with a hole for the cooker flex with a gripper fitted in a convenient
| location at the back of the cooker?
| Or what should I do?
On the subject of which.... I've a cooker rated 2.8kW. I can't see any good
reason not to
extend the radial cct from the cooker switch to a 13A socket and put a 13A plug
on a suitable
flex to the cooker (all run in 6mm^2 and protected at the CU witha 32A mCB).
easy since the cooker just unplugs and introduces discrimination since I can put
a 10A fuse in
the plug. Any disadvantages or reasons *not* to do this?
A very slight disadvantage is perhaps that someone could plug a low
wattage device (eg a 40 watt lamp) into your 32amp supply socket.
But they'd have to crawl behind the kitchen units to do it.
I think your way is best. I'll see if there's a socket with the word
"cooker" on it in red, and use that to complete my installation, which
would somewhat overcome the above.
And this is different from plugging that 40W lamp into a ring main
whose wiring is protected by a 32A breaker how, exactly? Either is fine.
Short-circuit and overload protection for the lamp cable is provided
by the fuse in the plugtop in the first instance. Short-circuit protection
is further provided by the MCB for the whole circuit. Plug-top fuses in
UK plugs are one of the things which makes ringmains feeding appliances
wired in wimpy 0.75mmsq cabling just fine - and that's one of the reasons
that a Euro Standard Plug is massively unlikely to ever happen. (Continental
wiring practice is much more in the direction of radials to individual
rooms or a couple of adjacent rooms, fused/breakered at 15A or 20A, and
Schucko-style unfused plugs-&-socketses. Possibly-overload-generating
appliances have thicker (1.5mmsq) cable than some UK manufacturers would
use with integral moulded plug. That, together with the "semi-polarised"
nature of Schucko plugs (you can certainly plug 2-pin plugs either way
round, and many of the 3-contact variants (2 pins for live & neutral,
'scraping' earth contacts at top and bottom) can also be plugged in
either way up) make any single Euro-wide plug-n-socket damned unlikely.
Interoperability in practice is largely achieved through using separate
mains cords with a country-specific plug at one end and a Standard
cable-end-socket (IEC320-style for 3-pin, figure-of-8-style for 2-pin)
at the other, with a matching chassis plug on the world-wide-identical
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