Correct way to wire in an electric oven

I'd look lower down the wall for a connection unit. It looks like a blank plate on the front of a back box.

On the subject of which.... I've a cooker rated 2.8kW. I can't see any good reason not to extend the radial cct from the cooker switch to a 13A socket and put a 13A plug on a suitable flex to the cooker (all run in 6mm^2 and protected at the CU witha 32A mCB). Makes maintenance easy since the cooker just unplugs and introduces discrimination since I can put a 10A fuse in the plug. Any disadvantages or reasons *not* to do this?

good reason not to

plug on a suitable

mCB). Makes maintenance

can put a 10A fuse in

If by cooker you mean oven then what you suggest is pretty much standard practise - it's the 6.5+kw hobs that need hard wiring. Richard.

Me, A very slight disadvantage is perhaps that someone could plug a low wattage device (eg a 40 watt lamp) into your 32amp supply socket. But they'd have to crawl behind the kitchen units to do it.

I think your way is best. I'll see if there's a socket with the word "cooker" on it in red, and use that to complete my installation, which would somewhat overcome the above.

Thanks

Tony

And this is different from plugging that 40W lamp into a ring main whose wiring is protected by a 32A breaker how, exactly? Either is fine.

Short-circuit and overload protection for the lamp cable is provided by the fuse in the plugtop in the first instance. Short-circuit protection is further provided by the MCB for the whole circuit. Plug-top fuses in UK plugs are one of the things which makes ringmains feeding appliances wired in wimpy 0.75mmsq cabling just fine - and that's one of the reasons that a Euro Standard Plug is massively unlikely to ever happen. (Continental wiring practice is much more in the direction of radials to individual rooms or a couple of adjacent rooms, fused/breakered at 15A or 20A, and Schucko-style unfused plugs-&-socketses. Possibly-overload-generating appliances have thicker (1.5mmsq) cable than some UK manufacturers would use with integral moulded plug. That, together with the "semi-polarised" nature of Schucko plugs (you can certainly plug 2-pin plugs either way round, and many of the 3-contact variants (2 pins for live & neutral, 'scraping' earth contacts at top and bottom) can also be plugged in either way up) make any single Euro-wide plug-n-socket damned unlikely. Interoperability in practice is largely achieved through using separate mains cords with a country-specific plug at one end and a Standard cable-end-socket (IEC320-style for 3-pin, figure-of-8-style for 2-pin) at the other, with a matching chassis plug on the world-wide-identical main unit.

Stefek