CH timer workaround - is it safe?

Probably not unless the thing falls apart..

However, it is a simple and inexpensive job to put in a nice new proper timer so that would be a far better option.

It really depends on how the system is wired. If the timer is plugged into a wall socket then the boiler should be getting its supply from that as well, otherwise the setup isn't safe anyway.....

It would be a good idea whatever you do, to look at and sketch out how everything is wired. If you need help with that, post back again.

.andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

In message , anon writes

I presume you are talking about a Randall 102 or 103

Better to buy the electronic equivalent e.g. Randall 105E, no need to rewire anything and it

Too true Maxie, also the ubiquitous Landis & Gyr mechanical version has a direct replacement digital model.

For those of us with a bit of relevant experience,

"The problem is that it's very old and the plastic knobs just get > >pushed around the dial so the heating wither stays on, or stays off > >depending on which knob actually managed to switch it last."

gives it away as being a 102 or a 103. The direct backplate compatible replacement is the 103E or the 105E

To replace it with any other make would involve replacing the backplate and rewiring it

listen and learn

We had an old Randall with the same symptoms, and bought a Drayton Tempus Seven from B&Q, for about 40 quid. It comes with a replacement backplate and a simple wiring diagram, and was pretty easy to fit. It works a treat.

In message , Steve writes

A 105E will do the same without a rewire

Their not getting it are they! Yup, I had the 103 and direct replacement with the 105E - what a difference - changed and programmed in two minutes :-))

In message , SantaUK writes

One can only try