Ceramic chimney lining

[The Natural Philosopher]

Exactly.

[The Natural Philosopher]

I've dine that to tow different chimneys on 5 occasions. I don't care to let it burn out. I doused the fire with water and blocked the airflow with a sheeet of wood in all cases. It dies quickly.

The most amusing incident was many years ago when I lived in a third floor Mews flat in Belsize. It had an old open fire in it. Which we decided to use.

After a rip roaring burn up of lots of bits of skip sourced wood and some probably illegal coal, we left it to die down and went down the pub.

To see a whole patch of the external wall glowing dull red hot.

I wonder if they ever repainted it? These days I believe it's hugely expensive bijoux apartment-ettes.

[www.GymRatZ.co.uk]

I can't see why you even need something like this?

Presumably they'd have to CCTV the chimney BEFORE carrying out what looks like a very suspect mathod of aplication. If their pre-inspection shows no mechanical damage to the chinmey from the chiney fire then you wouldn't need to have it done. If damage was evident then I'd hope they would have to open up the damaged section and make it good before "coating" but once made good would it need coating?

As the ceramic is bonded to the chimney surface (again I question as to how effective a bonding would be on old, dusty brickwork) then surely the temperature of the "new" surface would be the same as the original brickwork (conduction through contact). Sure it may be able to withstand

2000 degrees but it's not going to make a jot of difference to normal chimney temperatures or the "cool" gas temperatures of a woodburner.. is it?. And if the chimney has survived one fire without damage then it's still a chimney and built to withstand such incidences.

Why do you think it needs to be lined? Get the chimney swept and get a "ticket" from the sweeper that has attended a "how to sweep a chimney and get some fancy sounding accreditation" course. (He'll smoke test it as part of his requirement to issue a certificate of inspection)

Then get on and light your fire. Save £2k, save the mess and disrtuption and spend the money on a few loads of really nice dry and seasoned firewood to reduce the further deposits of stuff that might catch on fire.

If you want to do a wood burner later on then decide to either get a liner or follow my rational somewhere way down this thread, but the ceramic coating wouldn't be any better for a wood burner than what you already have in it's raw state. In my view.

FWIW here's some pictures of our chimneys and stuff both "certified" by a man with said qualifications..

of course... :¬)

[george [dicegeorge]]

If its anything like all the rest of the brickwork then a lot of the lime mortar has crumbled and been washed away by decades of raining coming down the chimneys so there will be gaps between the bricks, leading to wqood.

I'm scared of fire.

The house was built by locals using bits of an old building and has many mistakes and bodges!

[g]

[Andy Burns]

[www.GymRatZ.co.uk]

no I know but it's the only place I have "the series" of updated pictures etc.

Srry.

[www.GymRatZ.co.uk]

Ah I see.. Might be worth investigating a CCTV "survey" if such a thing exists like they do with drains. My concern would be that any static type coating would also be very suseptible to cracking from general house movement found in older places. Obviously a flexible liner wouldn't have the same problems. :¬) But it's what you feel safe with, and if such a finish puts your mind at ease then that's perhaps more important than whether it lives up to the miraculous claims given by the suppliers.

;¬))

[The Natural Philosopher]

sealing.

its not that bonded. It becomes a free floating liner that's sort of bonded..but not that much...

safety. It doesn't degrade at temperature. Mortar does.

[Grimly Curmudgeon]

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the drugs began to take hold. I remember Onetap saying something like:

Or spray water mist up the flue from underneath.

[The Natural Philosopher]

what you do is douse the hearth fire with whatever you have = water works, and block air entry to the fire. You get a lot of steam going up, very little oxygen, and it rapidly goes out if its not been burning too long.

Reemember to start with it's only tars burning.. the chimney itself wont be hot.

[Grimly Curmudgeon]

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the drugs began to take hold. I remember The Natural Philosopher saying something like:

Quite. There was a product called Chim-Safe which installed on the chimney breast and sprayed a mist into the lum, extinguishing flue fires as needed. Supposedly it also contributed significantly to keeping the chimney clean, as a by-product, when used regularly in that function. I don't know if it's still around. This is an old article, shortly after it was invented...