Yes but that is not enough to comply with Part L whcih the OP does not have to do since this is not a new replacement.
Agreed this is simpler that going for all TRVs and 'smart' bypass units with interlocks.
Duh! Then it will cycle. The regs say it requires a control interlock. Which mean when all the house is satisfied the burner is off.
In message , IMM writes
How many sheep are we talking about here?
Good question Maxie! Our snotty uni person is surrounded by them. He was banished from mixing with normal people.
Dunno.
I actually don't run my central heating when the whole house is warm enough.
And teh boiler cycles in teh house stat when one is used anyway. So waht is the difference?
Nothing, except the pump runs all the time.
There is no requirement to make sure your pump doesn't run when the whole house is warm.
That is true, and in many cases it is best to keep it running, especially when having an outside weather compensator. But switching out the burner when the house is up to temp is pretty well necessary.
"Mike Hibbert" wrote
This is almost if not exactly the same as my setup.
There's no room stat and I control the overall temperature via the control on the boiler (which for me is in the kitchen).
I have TRV's on all the rads, including now the recently installed towel rail, however, I don't turn off any of the TRV's.
Maybe i've done wrong by TRV'ing the last radiator, but I don't know whether the lack of a room stat is an issue. I suppose it'd save visiting the boiler !
I tend to whack the TRV's on max and keep the boiler on low rather than the reverse.
Cheers,
Paul.
So your boiler runs 10% of the time during the middle of the day when no heating is required?
This is simply not allowed for a new system. You might think it acceptable. HMG thinks not. If no heat is required, the boiler and water must be allowed to cool down. The requirement is pretty clearly worded (but only applies to gas/oil, not solid fuel).
Christian.
The TRVs sense room temperature. They should be set at around 21C, so that the radiators turn themselves off when the room gets to temperature. Many people erroneously think that they are "power" controls rather than "temperature" controls and think the room will heat quicker on a higher setting. They are wrong. The radiator will get to the same high temperature whatever the setting, provided the room is colder than the selected temperature. I really wish TRVs were marked in Celcius, as people would understand the meaning rather than the ambiguous 1-6 thing.
The boiler control is probably the output water temperature. This will affect how hot the radiators get and will affect their output power. If you set this too low on a conventional boiler, you may get some condensing action, which may corrode the heat exchanger. However, lower settings get better thermodynamic efficiency. On a condensing boiler, the heat exchanger is designed to condense, so set it as low as is effective.
If you have TRVs on all radiators, or you have an S-plan system with room stat, you need an (preferably automatic) bypass valve on the system. Otherwise, the water circuit can be entirely blocked, which can cause problems for the boiler circulation and any pump overrun.
It is. It reduces the efficiency, causing you to waste energy by continuing to heat water that isn't required.
Christian.
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