Hello all,
The pump in my central heating system is marked as a Commodore 130 and on the body of the pump is a black control box with settings numbered 1 to 5 and minimum and maximum signs.
What is this for?
Regards....Mike
is the -[minus] sign near the 1 and the +[plus] sign near the 5 ?
/scratches head, wonders 'whatever can it mean' ? :o)
RT
A speed control?
However, be aware that speeding it up over what the minimum needed to overcome the resistance of the furthest away rad does little apart from increase noise and wear. And in a vented system may cause pumping over. Indeed, when a system is properly balanced (see FAQ) it might be possible to reduce the speed even more.
Yes, the minus is nearer the 1 and the plus near the 5.
The arrow on the small switch currently points to number 2.
The reason I ask is the radiators downstairs are cool and the upstairs very hot, I wondered if it had anything to do with the pump.
Regards....Mike
No, the problem is the system is not 'balanced'
google for uk.d-i-y central heating FAQ balanced
Probably one of the easiest DIY plumbing-related tasks as it doesn't involve getting wet[1]
Owain
[1] If it does please tell us all about it, we'd enjoy the giggle.
Unlikely - unless the downstairs rads are fed from above. You need to read the FAQ on balancing rads.
Hi All,
Thanks for the help, excuse my ignorance but where do I find the FAQ on UK D.I.Y?
Regards....Mike
To quote Owain:
google for uk.d-i-y central heating FAQ balanced
Go to Google and search for "uk.d-i-y central heating FAQ balanced"
Or just go to
Hope that helps
David
The symptoms described
are consistent with a pump that's seized or failed altogether. Before the OP starts fiddling with all his lockshield valves I'd suggest removing the pump's bleed screw - that's the big one in the middle of the round end of the motor body - and seeing whether the shaft is spinning.
When you take the screw out (have a bowl and some old towels handy to catch the small amount of water which will escape) you can see the end of the shaft, which usually has a screwdriver slot in it. With the power off, insert a suitably sized driver and check that the shaft is free to rotate. If not, a modest amount of gently applied torque will usually free it off. If the shaft is free, but does not spin when power is applied, then it's probably time for a new pump - assuming the control electrics are OK and the pump is actually getting power, that is.
The plastic impellers can disintegrate, if a solid object gets into the system or is dislodged, such as solder inside a joint.
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Don't really see this, given that switching on and off the pump via a stat is one way of controlling the temperature of the house. If there was that much thermo syphon and the boiler an old closed loop type, this simply wouldn't work?
Fair comment, but I have observed this effect more than once with a dead pump. I guess it will be very dependent on the pipework layout of the particular system, so YM could very well V. It's definitely worth checking basic things like this though before embarking on trying to re-balance the whole system.
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