Some years back there was a thread here on CH zone valves.
My Honeywell hot water zone valve has begun to be a nuisance: not fully opening to operate the limit switch. Initially this was fixed by replacing the motor. Latterly a temporary cure by several manual operations.
Aged 20 years Honeywell F1-9450 (22mm comp) does not return any Google hits. The current offering (V4043H ) looks identical.
The questions:-
Is complete replacement the best solution?
Is V4043H suitable?
Assuming it's an S-Plan system - with a separate valve for each zone, and with the valves' auxiliary contacts switching the boiler and pump on
- the V4043H is certainly the one to use.
On earlier versions of this valve (maybe yours?) you couldn't separate the wet and dry parts without draining down. With this one, you can.
If you *can* remove the actuator from yours without causing a flood, it would be worth doing so and working the shaft of the wet bit to and fro to make sure it moves freely. Otherwise, replace the whole thing - it doesn't owe you a lot!
Yes, S-plan.
Access is a bit of a pig. By the time I have removed the airing cupboard shelving I will have enough effort invested to think changing the valve is a good plan:-)
Studying the pipework and service valves, there is no way of avoiding a drain down to valve level. I'll attempt a tell tale leak to a bucket!
Thanks.
If you've got service valves on the pump, closing one of those should stop any flow in one direction. Assuming it's a vented system (by its age), bunging up the feed and vent pipes in the F&E tank should then mean that you can remove a valve with very little loss of water. [Deep drip tray and wet&dry vac at the ready!]
If your valves *are* the old sort, it would be a good plan to replace both/all of them at the same time.
At some stage, Honeywell have changed the thread pitch on the valve bodies so before forcing the original nuts onto the new body, it is worth checking the thread pitch. It is usually possible to remove the old olives with careful filing of a flat on the olive until is just breaks through and can be prised off. Brass olive on copper pipe is easiest as you can see the filed area change colour to indicate when to stop. A bit of your favourite pipe sealing jollop should prevent any leaks whether you reuse the nut& olive or not. Good Luck
Bastards - there's no good reason to have done that.
Seems a common enough tactic across various industries, I was putting up some shelves in the garage, I knew I had a few uprights and brackets of the "twin slot" shelving, but would need some more.
Couldn't seem to find any that matched the ones I had, which are stamped on the back with "DBP made in Germany" so I went to B&Q looking for equivalents, they're still made by by DBP, but the slot widths and spacings are now marginally different - so I chucked the few I had in the bin and bought a load of "EKBY LERBERG" brackets from Ikea, very pleased with them.
In message , Bob Minchin writes
I have thread gauges. Thanks for the warning and solution. I'm pleased to note that my Builders Merchant is as cheap as anything on line:-)
Umm. Metric compression was never the same as imperial though.
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Hmm.. Gate valves. However, the pump is relatively new and easily accessible so I'll limit myself to one plumbing problem at a time:-)
Header tank access is very awkward to fiddle with bungs but a sound suggestion. A bit of fresh Fernox won't do any harm:-)
Think he's talking about the pump threads?
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