All assembled knowledgeable folk,
I fear the time has come, the ravenheat boiler has expired, no spark, fan runs etc. etc. but not spark, not even the clicking from the igniter ...
Do I:
a) buy a new PCB and hope or
b) Get a new boiler - this one is knackered, rusty internally (DAHIK - IJD
- OK)
if b) as I suspect it will have to happen in the next short while anyway Worcerster-Bosh, Vallaint or ???
Your thoughts on makes is welcomed
Regards
Avpx
bear in mind:
Eventually gas boilers will be phased out for heat pumps and solar PV. there is a certain year quoted for this
There might be an opportunity to get some cheap insulation/energy efficiency work done on your house as part of Rishi's Grant scheme....
I'll throw one out there... Viessmann
My combi at home is a German "Micromat EC" (originally bought based on "Dr Evil"'s recommendation!) which at the time it was installed the plumber was impressed with its radial burner box etc, more a thing of commercial boilers than domestic apparently. It's now around 16 years old and admittedly I've had to replace the diverter valve a number of times, the pump once, hot-glue the condensate siphon, replace a number of dead o-rings on numerous occasions and so-on but on the whole it's been superb, built in weather compensation with user customisable temp/flow ramp, ideal for the UFH. Certainly never had to get an engineer to do any repairs; so having looked at what's around Viessmann appeared to be the closest thing in terms of "quality" so that would be my next replacement rather than the go-to WB or Valliant. Worth checking out as an alternative.
It might be the step up spark transformer that has failed rather than the main PCB. Check to see if the primary coil has gone open circuit. I probably wouldn't do an expensive control board swap if the thing is already on its last legs for mechanical or corrosion reasons.
Disturbing things to make repairs tends to cause anything else that is about to go wrong to wait about a fortnight and then fail. OTOH you could be lucky and get another 5 years out of it.
I've been pretty pleased with my Viessmann system boiler. Going by the problems most of my friends have with their boilers, it's been very good. And it's never been 'serviced'. Saving me over £1000 in the time I've had it.
Also might be worth looking at Intergas boilers... exceptionally simple engineering with only four easy to replace parts to go wrong apparently....
S.
We are in the same position - old Vaillant conked out. I have a repair guy coming later today and he has parts and I will ask for an opinion on whether it's better to replace it. He is an authorised Ideal installer but can work on anything.
I had another firm in the morning to quote, which they are doing.
On makes, the consensus I reckon is that Vaillant is the best - better build than Worcester according to this morning's chap, and easy to work on. Which? also scores Vaillant the highest.
Don't install one that is overated - our house has 16 rads/hot water cylinder but a 24kw boiler is OK.
I'd caution against taking just the advice of an installer. They are likely to want the most profit and ease of supply and installation. The devil you know... They ain't going to be worried if it lasts 10 years against 20 for a better make.
There was a bit on the radio this afternoon warning people not to get scammed by the salesman who offer to do the grant paperwork on your behalf. The advice was also to not to buy from anyone who cold calls.
Apparently there are hundreds of companies recently registered with Green Home or similar in their company name just waiting to take peoples money with overpriced work.
I don't think there's much doubt about Vaillant. But other brands have upped their game so there isn't that much between them in reliability at least.
Several installers contacted (W-B, V & V) - also asking around as to who has had stuff done, by whom and how good/bad it was
Is that in a good way or not re:Vaillant?
Regards
Avpx
Could be the igniter electrode, they do wear away after a few years.
Unless it supplies a shower and it's a combi boiler and you want a good flow of hot water.
Nope - DAMHIK-IJD ok
(also no ticking sound when trying to light)
Avpx
They look interesting. Thanks. (Don?t need a new boiler at present but always nice to see innovation that doesn?t add complication).
Tim
24 kW will give you 10 l/min with a 35 C temprise (15 to 50 C).
Yer average electic shower can only manage about 4 l/min with the same temp rise.
I guess it depends on what you call a "good flow of hot water". Best shower I've ever had was a small waterfall down onto a beach in Jamaica. That was probably closer to 60 l/min, wasn't hot though but very pleasant all the same.
in which case a 24kW combi has no hope of modulating down far enough.
NT
I'm talking about a system boiler heating an unvented cylinder. In our three story house the pressure is good enough for a very good shower on the top floor.
Anyway just had the engineer in and he couldn't fix our old Vaillant. He didn't have both PCBs on the van but the minimum cost to fix would be about £300-£350 assuming one board would fix it and if both boards are implicated that's about £500.
So I've asked him for quotes on a new 28kw (his suggestion) Vaillant and Ideal, which he says he can fit on Friday or Monday.
At least i didn't have to pay him tonight as no fix no fee.
Might be worth giving Geoff at CET ltd a call to see if he has re-manufactured PCBs for the boiler (basically he does PCB exchange - you buy recon ones, and send him the dead ones - at a fraction of the price from the OEM)
With modern modulating boilers that is less of a problem in the past. A boiler with a wide modulation range is also desirable. The Vaillant 24kW models often go do to around 6kW. If you also go for split temperature operation[1] and weather compensation[2] it can make for a very quiet and comfortable setup, with just the right amount of heat when you need it, little overshoot, and no clanking and clicking in the heating system most of the time.
[1] Allows the boiler to run much lower flow temps to the rads for higher condensing efficiency, and less system noise. [2] Uses an outside temperature sensor to influence flow temperature (often combined with a preset heatloss curve set for the building), so it runs cooler when the weather is mild, and hotter when it gets colder.(it also means the thermostat behaves more like many people seem to expect - turn it up higher and the system will actually heat up faster!)
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