Bexi Barcelona Wows

Sounds like the high limit has gone. Maxie, recons the boards, so he would know the sequence.

Just read the other post re-baxi , looks like they don¢t want to play winter. A perhaps relevant point I forgot is that if I interrupt the first successful burn before it has got really hot by turning down the room stat, it still refuses to re-ignite.

Sounds a pcb problem Maxie will provide a recon job.

Are you serth efricen? Call 0870 609 9049 and tell them the model (are you sure you mean Barcelona? Perhaps that's Bermuda in SA?) User guides are available here:

Keep girl ditch boiler? Try downloading the instruction manual from Baxi.

Does the lockout light come on permamently or is it flashing? According to the manual it should be one of:

Have you checked further than the boiler? Water is circulating, you don't have all TRVs and no bypass etc.? Just a thought.

External, but the boielr has flow and return temp sensors so can tell if it's working.

Yes I checked all the simple things first. I really need to establish whether this is a spark/elec or a gas valve problem, but I cant think how to test for this safely. If it is gas , I havenÿt a problem getting Mr Corgi to fix it, but if its electrical I think can tackle this myself. Bloody thing worked ok tonight, intermittent faults are the result of Mr Watts.

A snitch at that price, for £5 worth of components

Yes thanks for the reply Ed As per my other post on this, I need to know which of the two im missing as it goes into fault, sparks or gas? Fan ok, power to gas valve ok. Do you know if the gas is fired at full bore from the spark ignition or is it romped up somehow, gas meter is down two flights of stairs, so a bit tricky trying to see if gas is moving during the 20 sec before lockout.

The spark lead serves three functions.

The latter is detected by the ignition lead being shorted to ground. However later (or maybe all?) models dispensed with the condensate over flow detector (not needed really since they produce little condensate except at start up). However the lead has a (Lucar?) socket on the end to fit into the non-existant condensate-trap-over-flow detector. This can touch the casing and show as a fault or more likely nearly touch the casing and prevent the HT from sparking at the ignition electrode.

Yes the boiler starts low and ramps up to full gas rate I beleive this is pretty much the norm with all forced premix burners.

I'm not sure but I think that there is likely an accessible inlet pressure test point on the gas valve. You put a U-gauge on this and start the boiler. You should see a dip when the gas valve opens (and a total drop if the appliance isolator is closed).

Thank you for a detailed and useful reply. As this is an intermittent fault I have decided to replace the cheapest bits first, and also have a look for dry joints on both the pcb boards. One final silly question, what temp should I set the boiler to ? its has got both a room and HWTank stat. Thanks

You want the flow temp to be about 10C (?) more than the HW tank setting so that the HW is heated and the boiler is then off for a while. This will require some experimentation to find the lowest setting which lets the tank stat operate. This is the minimum setting. If the radiators are not getting hot enough to heat the house properly on this setting (which might be the case in the worst weather) then you will need to raise the control at those times.