Basic Plumbing Q - Reliable Valves

Hi all

The situation is that I need to route two pipes (15mm flow and return for a kick space heater). They currently stick out of the concrete floor by about 6" and have the "standard" 1/4 turn reduced bore compression valves fitted. The issue is that I want to fit a new valve to the end of each re-route and have confidence that the valve won't start leaking. The current valves leak passed the "valve stem" quite badly (when I say valve stem I mean the bit where a valve stem would be if these weren't driven by a slotted nipple for screw driver operation). The pipes need cutting down anyway so the system will have to be drained and these naff valves dispensed with. My concern over confidence in the quality is down to the location - they will be under a kitchen larder unit serving a kick space heater. The chances are they will only be operated a couple of times because the heater is supplied with flexible hoses that incorporate ball valves to one end. But I want to get the piping re-work done in advance of buying the heater - hence the requirement for valves.

As luck would have it, the existing pipes come out of the ground right behind the leg location of my future larder unit :(. So I will have to run the pipes along the wall a short distance, then elbow out away from the wall through valves. Then elbow again to present connections running parallel to the wall for the kick space heater flexis. Some sort of elbow valve might do the trick if there is such a thing. All this needs to be within 6" of the floor to fit under the unit and, as stated previously, be guaranteed not to develop leaks. Once the larder unit is fitted, access will be next to nil.

Thanks for any constructive comments

Phil

Reply to
TheScullster
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I've used lots of Pegler lever ball valves, and never had an issue with any one of them.

Reply to
dom

As the flexies have valves why have another set? Do the plumbing as required and put pushfit (ie easy to remove) stop ends on until you are ready to install the heater and its flexies. You shouldn't have to drain down to fit the flexies, use bungs on a open vented system or depressurise a sealed one.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

Having replaced a similar heater a few years ago with one with flexible hoses, I'd now make doubly sure that the ball valves on the fixed pipes are up to scratch. The ball valves on the flexible hoses are fixed on the hoses and are unable to be (non-destructively) dismantled. It was impossible to find suitable temperature replacement hoses and valves in a hurry when I needed them last winter. I ended up using a loop of HEP2O or similar to replace one of the flexes.

Reply to
<me9

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