Asus notebook dead, bought new battery and charger still wont boot up so I reckon something internal. Are there any relatively easy things to check before I bin it. I have a multi meter but have little knowledge of it other than checking mains voltage.
any signs of life at all? e.g flicker from any LED backlight turns on even with no text on display any twitch from fans
Are you able to enter the bios when it starts up? You may be able to checks the volts on the plug that goes into the laptop.
It doesnt start up 100% dead no whirs/pings...nothing.
any beeps?
ok chances are its really simple like a broken wire
You have little to lose by opening it up
Does it beep at all while attempting to boot up?
If so google bios boot beep codes for your computer
Is it actually charging? There should be an LED that lights up to show its charging. Broken charger sockets are common. Look on Ebay for the model number of the laptop. Some are a socket on a wiring loom and can be changed without soldering. Google how to dismantle the laptop. Some are easy some are a right fiddle (1) If the charger socket is soldered onto the motherboard you'll need to find a repair shop unless you are really good at soldering a surface mount circuit board.(2)
(1) as in lots of tiny M2 screws. :-) (2) as in nearly impossible without a microscope, 20:20 vision and lots and lots and lots of practice. :-)
Nope nothing.
............................
Its not charging, nothing lights up. I last used merely to charge it about 6 weeks ago, then, the other day was going to charge it just to keep it topped up and ..zilch...totally dead. So bought a new charger and battery but still dead.
If I bin it I can sell the new battery and charger on ebay, but will open it up first as nothing to lose.
First thing I would suggest is to disconnect from power and remove the battery. Leave it like that for half an hour, and then try again.
If still no life, push and hold the power button, and count to 10 slowly. Release, wait a few secs and push and release it.
OK has it ever worked or is it something you picked up second hand? As there is no sign of life it could be that something in the power supply internally has died. This could be almost anything so you might need to talk to a users forum, as different models tend to have stock faults, ie the weak links. If you are lucky it might be fixable but unless you know the history of the machine, it could just be a bolted together bunch of non working bits that you cannot fix. Brian
Presumably then its not even charging its battery. Why did you buy a battery?
Brian
Make sure you note watt screws are from where, or you will get into one heck of a mess. I'd say 80 percent of machines with no show either have a broken charging connector inside the machine or its a dodgy power supply. Are we sure that the 'new'psu is ok? Brian
In the 9 years I have owned it it has had 2 new chargers and 2 new batteries. So assumed it was one or the other, I dont know anything about electronics so not in a position to test anything.
+1, has worked on a few business laptops
Please stop there and tell us the model number and/or part number. Either will be written on the underside.
You may be lucky to find a service manual, that will show the order and necessity to remove screws. Without that, you'll go over the top and make the reassembly more involved, damage bits and have screws left over....
A common failure to charge would be the power connector contacts failing. Often it's soldered to the motherboard, sometimes it's on a smaller board with leads and available on eBay. With the thing apart and your meter, you should be able to see if power is getting through.
There have been motherboards in the past, where a flat CR2032 inside the machine, prevents power-on. But, that would likely only affect power on.
The CR2032 is tied to the Southbridge (RTC) but can also be tied to a voltage monitor on the SuperIO. And a few motherboards don't work properly, when something within the SuperIO complains if the CR2032 is flat. The replacements are tethered, with a two pin connector on the end for a pin header. Normally, you can make a motherboard work without the CR2032 connected.
I don't think it very likely that this is the problem.
*******With your brand new adapter and battery, you should be able to get the power management to light the charging LED and give a status. Either the battery needs charging and will be one color, or the battery is full and the other color should come on. For nothing to come on, means the power management doesn't have any power, and cannot say a thing.
I don't really know whether laptops have a fuse inside anywhere. Like, as part of the power management.
*******This is a laptop schematic.
As a source of inspiration, page 46 shows a battery charger using ISL88731. Compal is an ODM, who makes laptops for OEMs (Dell/HP) to sell.
VIN should be the barrel connector on the laptop.
BATT+ would be the main battery.
B+ feeds the system.
Pages after page 46, show DC power converters for various rails. Page 52 is for VCore on the CPU.
Power ON/OFF is on page 40 (KB9012 is key to this powering puzzle).
Here's a reference to the KB9012, which may play a part in Power On/OFF
Page 56 has a block diagram of power distribution.
Page 39 has the power button. ON/OFF is the signal. ON/OFF goes to KB9012. We need to get power on KB9012 to ignite the thing.
3.3V/5V power by Richtek RT8205 chip. Page 47. But that can't be left running all the time, so does not answer how the blasted KB9012 is brought out of slumber.Tracing back to Page 39, the power button does two things. And one of those things is EC_ON. EC_ON seems to relate to turning on the KB9012, and then the KB9012 can see the power button signal and being an Embedded Controller, sequences the rest of startup.
That's the problem with designs like this, is they're a puzzle, and you can chase your tail for hours trying to find the nugget at the core.
So a person might start debugging why EC_ON is not working, why the KB9012 is not doing its little embedded controller thing. Maybe the quartz crystal broke because the unit was dropped. Or maybe the KB9012 burned up (which apparently happens).
Paul
Check the PSU is outputting voltage first.
It's going to struggle with Win10 then. Maybe time for a new one.
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