accessible light / timer connections

Apr 02, 2011 5 Replies
S

I have some connections to make for a ceiling light, switch and run-on timer. The light fitting does not have any loop-in terminals, just L and N. The connection groups to be made are: permanent live (3 items): feed from CU, feed to switch, timer perm live switched live (3 items): return from switch, lamp, timer trigger neutral (4 items): feed from CU, lamp, timer neutral, fan neutral



In the past I would just do all this in those brown junction boxes under the floor. However, the floor above is hardboarded and vinyl covered, so the floor space is not really accessible. I need to have all the above connections accessible as per the regs.



Options:



  1. Fit them into the back of the timer wall box (don't think they would fit)
  2. Put them into an empty wall box with blank plate on the front
  3. As (2) but put my fan isolator there instead of a blanking plate and use box deep enough for all connections
  4. Put all the connections in the light fitting (they would be in an enclosed space a couple of inches from the bulb and would get hot).

What's the best / usual method in this situation ?



Thanks, Simon.


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O

You can use something like this

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poke it up into the ceiling void through the hole which will be covered by the light fitting

or use a maintenance free junction box which are (opinions vary) suitable for inaccessible places

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terminals in a suitable enclosure may be another option.

Owain

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A

What timer is it?

Neat. And if you needed more space for the connections then use a dual accessory box that has a blank plate over one side and is sunk deep so that the blanking plate is below the plaster level. It nearly doubles the amount of space you have .

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S

Is an xpelair DT20B, comes with a plastic box for surface mounting but can also fit into a standard back box.

The isolator was going to be next to the fan, which will be behind a bridging cabinet above a fridge, and only accessible with the fridge pulled out (unless I put the isolator into the back panel of the bridging unit). Do you think its better to have the fan isolator next to the run-on timer where it would be more accessible ? (that could swing the decision between using (3) above, or a junction box as Owain suggested. By the way, this is the last bit of wiring I have to sort out for the kitchen. Cheers, Simon.

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A

The manual says a 45mm deep box:-)

I don't think it matters either way.

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S

Well I've ordered 2 of the wagobox starter kits and some mounting buttons. The various bits will come in handy for the fan connections and another junction box I need. Simon.

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